Daffodils (Narcissus genus) are resilient bulbs that can be successfully dug up and replanted. This process, often called dividing, is necessary when clumps become overcrowded, causing a decline in spring flowers. Successful relocation depends on correct timing, careful excavation, proper temporary care, and thoughtful replanting. This guide provides the steps to ensure your daffodils thrive in their new home.
Optimal Timing for Moving Daffodils
The most important factor for a successful move is timing the process to coincide with the bulb’s natural dormancy period. Daffodils should only be lifted after the foliage has fully matured and begun to yellow or turn brown naturally. This stage typically occurs about six weeks after the plant finishes flowering, usually in late spring or early summer, when the bulbs are entering their resting phase.
Moving the bulbs before the leaves have fully died back can compromise next year’s bloom. The green foliage actively photosynthesizes, transferring energy and nutrients down into the bulb for storage. Interrupting this transfer by removing the leaves too early depletes the bulb’s reserves, potentially resulting in “blind” or non-flowering bulbs the following spring. Waiting for the foliage to turn yellow also provides a visual marker, making it easier to locate the bulbs underground.
Excavating and Preparing the Bulbs
The physical process of lifting the bulbs requires a gentle approach to prevent damage. Begin by inserting a garden fork or spade into the soil at least six inches away from the base of the daffodil stems, circling the entire clump. Digging wide and deep avoids accidentally slicing into the bulbs, which can lead to rot.
Once the soil is loosened, gently lift the entire clump out of the ground, taking care not to pull the bulbs by the remaining foliage. Shake off the excess soil to expose the individual bulbs, which may be clustered tightly together. Carefully separate the bulbs, often connected to smaller “daughter” bulbs, using your hands to divide the clump. Discard any dead foliage and brush away loose dirt, but avoid washing the bulbs, as excess moisture encourages fungal growth.
Temporary Storage and Bulb Health Check
If the bulbs cannot be replanted immediately, they need a period of curing and storage. Lay the freshly dug bulbs in a single layer on a screen or newspaper in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area for about one week to allow them to cure. This drying process removes surface moisture and extends the bulb’s storage life by inhibiting mold and rot.
Before storing, inspect each bulb for health, looking for signs of damage or disease. A healthy daffodil bulb should be plump and firm to the touch, with its papery outer layer, or tunic, intact. Any bulbs that feel soft, mushy, or show signs of mold should be discarded immediately to prevent the spread of infection. For longer-term storage until the optimal fall planting window, place the cured bulbs in mesh bags, paper bags, or shallow trays filled with materials like peat moss or sawdust. Ensure good air circulation in a dry, cool environment.
Replanting for Future Blooms
When preparing the new site, select a location that offers well-drained soil and receives full sun or partial shade. Daffodils are prone to rot in soggy conditions, so amending heavy clay soil with compost or grit improves drainage.
The general rule for planting depth is to bury the bulb two to three times its height, typically four to eight inches deep for most standard varieties. Place the bulb with the pointed end facing upward and space them three to six inches apart to allow for future multiplication and root development. Adding a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as bone meal, to the planting hole supports root growth. After covering the bulbs with soil, water the area thoroughly and mark the location to prevent accidental disturbance.