The question of whether one can cut a Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) in half is often prompted by a plant that has grown too tall and lacks the desired bushy shape. The answer is yes; a major pruning cut is entirely possible and is frequently used to manage height and encourage a more tree-like form. This process revitalizes the parent plant and provides an opportunity to create a new, smaller plant from the severed top section. Understanding the underlying biology allows you to perform this drastic cut safely and successfully.
Understanding the Biology of Severe Pruning
The resilience of the Fiddle Leaf Fig stems from a natural growth mechanism known as apical dominance. This is where the plant’s main vertical stem grows more vigorously than its side stems. This upward growth is regulated by the hormone auxin, produced in the terminal bud at the apex, which flows downward and actively suppresses the growth of dormant lateral buds lower on the stem.
When the top section is removed, the primary source of this growth-inhibiting auxin is eliminated, releasing the plant from its vertical focus. This hormonal shift signals the plant to activate dormant lateral buds located along the trunk below the cut. The plant redirects energy into these buds, triggering them to develop into new branches, resulting in the fuller, bushier canopy many growers seek.
Executing the Major Cut
Performing a major cut requires planning regarding tool selection and incision placement. Always use sharp, sterilized tools, such as heavy-duty pruning shears or a small saw, cleaned with rubbing alcohol to prevent pathogens. Major pruning is best performed during the plant’s active growing season, typically spring or early summer, when it has the most energy for recovery and new growth.
Decide on the final height, remembering that new branches will sprout from the nodes closest to the cut. A node is the slightly raised ring or bump on the stem where a leaf was or where a dormant bud resides. Make a clean, straight cut about one-quarter inch above the chosen node, ensuring no stub is left behind that could harbor disease or decay.
Immediately following the cut, the trunk will exude a milky white latex sap, which can be irritating to the skin and is toxic if ingested. Gently wipe this sap away from the wound using a clean rag or paper towel until the flow slows or stops. Allowing the wound to dry naturally is sufficient, but some growers apply cinnamon powder or a specialized pruning seal to help the parent plant heal and prevent infection.
Reviving the Top Section through Propagation
The severed top section can be rooted to create an entirely new Fiddle Leaf Fig, a main benefit of this severe pruning technique. This large cutting should contain several leaves and at least one or two nodes, the sites from which new roots will emerge. To prepare the cutting, remove the bottom leaves, leaving only a few at the top. Consider trimming the remaining large leaves in half horizontally to reduce the surface area and minimize water loss through transpiration.
The two most common methods for rooting a large cutting are water and soil propagation. For water propagation, submerge the bottom nodes in a clear glass container filled with fresh, room-temperature water. Change the water every few days or whenever it appears cloudy to maintain oxygenation and prevent bacterial growth. Place the cutting in a warm spot with bright, indirect light; roots typically appear within two to four weeks.
Alternatively, root the cutting directly in a well-draining soil mix, which often leads to a smoother transition once established. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone powder to stimulate faster root development before planting. Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Increase humidity by covering the cutting and pot with a clear plastic bag, removing it periodically for air exchange.
Encouraging New Growth on the Parent Plant
Once the main cut is complete, the parent plant needs specific care to ensure a rapid and healthy recovery with multiple new branches. Place the plant in its optimal environment, meaning abundant bright, indirect light, as energy for new growth is created through photosynthesis. Consistent watering and a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer during the active growing season will supply the necessary nutrients.
To encourage branching at a specific point on the trunk, use a technique called “notching.” Notching involves making a shallow, horizontal cut, about one-third of the way through the stem’s diameter, directly above a dormant node. This incision interrupts the downward flow of auxin at a localized point, signaling the dormant bud below the notch to activate and sprout a branch.
Monitor the wound site closely for several weeks, as the remaining trunk is temporarily vulnerable to infection or pests. Maintaining consistent environmental conditions and avoiding significant stress, such as sudden temperature changes, helps the plant quickly seal the cut and channel energy toward producing new foliage. Within six to eight weeks, you should see small, reddish growth points emerging from the nodes below the main cut and any notched areas.