Honeysuckle, with its intensely fragrant, tubular flowers and charming climbing habit, is a highly desirable plant. It can be grown successfully in a pot, but this method requires intentional selection and disciplined care. Container growing offers the flexibility to enjoy the plant’s sweet scent on a balcony or patio, provided the specific needs of the root system are met.
Selecting Suitable Varieties for Container Growing
The most important step for long-term success is choosing a honeysuckle variety that is naturally less vigorous or has a compact, shrub-like form. Standard vining honeysuckles, such as Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas,’ are fast-growing and quickly become root-bound and stressed in a container. Instead, look for cultivars specifically bred for limited spaces.
Excellent choices include shrub honeysuckles like Lonicera fragrantissima (Winter Honeysuckle), a semi-evergreen shrub that grows to a manageable height of 5 to 8 feet. Another option is the low-growing Lonicera nitida, often used for hedging, which maintains a dense, compact form ideal for pots. For a true vining effect, seek out compact cultivars of Lonicera periclymenum, such as ‘Rhubarb and Custard’ or ‘Chic et Choc,’ which are well-suited for patio pots topped with a small obelisk.
The native Trumpet Honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens, particularly the cultivar ‘Major Wheeler,’ is a less aggressive climber that performs well in large containers. Selecting controlled-growth varieties prevents the plant from becoming excessively large, which forces constant, stressful pruning and repotting.
Essential Pot and Soil Requirements
The honeysuckle root system requires ample space, making container size a primary concern. For long-term planting, the pot should be at least two or three times the size of the current root ball and have a deep profile to accommodate its taproot tendency. A minimum capacity of 15 to 20 gallons is recommended for any woody shrub or vine intended to live in a pot for several years.
Proper drainage is mandatory; the container must have large, unobstructed drainage holes to prevent root rot from saturated soil. While pot material is less important than size, plastic or glazed containers help maintain soil moisture better than terra cotta or unglazed ceramic, which dry out quickly. The growing medium must be a high-quality, well-draining potting mix, not garden soil, which compacts easily. Amending the mix with perlite or coarse grit will improve aeration and drainage.
Routine Watering, Feeding, and Training
The day-to-day care of a potted honeysuckle differs significantly from a plant in the ground, primarily because the limited volume of soil dries out rapidly. During the active growing season, the plant requires frequent monitoring and thorough watering, often daily in hot weather. Honeysuckle prefers consistently moist but never waterlogged soil. Water deeply until it runs out of the drainage holes, ensuring the entire root ball is saturated.
A regular feeding regimen is necessary because nutrients leach out quickly from container soil. Apply a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer in early spring for a steady nutrient supply. Supplement this with a balanced liquid fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 N-P-K ratio) once or twice in mid-summer to replenish depleted nutrients.
For vining varieties, install a sturdy support structure, such as a trellis or an obelisk, at the time of planting. Although honeysuckle naturally twines, stems should be guided and loosely tied to the support to maintain a tidy appearance and maximize sun exposure. Shrub types benefit from light pruning after flowering to maintain shape.
Preparing Potted Honeysuckle for Winter
While honeysuckle is a hardy perennial, its roots in a container are far more vulnerable to cold than if they were insulated by the surrounding ground. The primary threat is not the cold itself, but the damaging freeze-thaw cycles that occur when temperatures fluctuate wildly. To protect the root ball, the plant must be moved to a sheltered, unheated location, such as a cold frame, an unheated garage, or against a protected wall of the house.
If the pot cannot be moved, it must be heavily insulated against the cold ground, which acts as a heat sink. Insulation can be achieved by wrapping the container with thick layers of burlap, bubble wrap, or water heater insulation, focusing on the sides and bottom. Piling organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, on top of the soil surface provides extra protection for the crown and upper roots.
During dormancy, the need for water is drastically reduced, but the soil should not dry out completely. On warmer winter days, check the soil a few inches below the surface and provide a light watering if dry, preventing desiccation damage. The plant can be moved back to its permanent location once the threat of severe, prolonged freezing temperatures has passed in the spring.