A cherry pit can be planted to grow a tree, but this process requires specific preparatory steps and patience. The pit inside the fruit is the seed of the Prunus species, containing the genetic information needed to sprout a new tree. Growing a cherry tree from a pit is a long-term gardening experiment rather than a quick or reliable method for commercial fruit production.
Preparing the Cherry Pit for Planting
The initial step is ensuring the pit is completely free of fruit pulp, which can lead to mold and fungal growth during preparation. After removing the pit, wash it thoroughly under warm water and lightly scrub to remove any clinging flesh residue. The clean pits should then be air-dried for three to five days on a paper towel to prevent moisture-related decay.
Cherry pits possess a natural survival mechanism known as dormancy, which must be broken for germination to occur. This dormancy is broken by a long period of cold and moisture, which is artificially replicated through a process called cold stratification. To simulate winter, place the dried pits in a container with a moist medium like peat moss or vermiculite. Seal the container and store it in a refrigerator between 33° and 41° Fahrenheit for approximately 10 to 12 weeks.
This chilling period signals to the seed that winter has passed, allowing the embryo inside to prepare for sprouting in the spring. During stratification, the container must be checked weekly to ensure the medium remains slightly moist and that no mold is developing. If the pits begin to sprout roots, they should be planted immediately to prevent damage to the fragile new growth.
Planting Procedures and Early Growth
Once the stratification period is complete, the prepared pits are ready for planting in small pots indoors, ideally in late winter or early spring. Use a well-draining potting soil mix to prevent the young seedling from sitting in excessive moisture that could cause root rot. Plant the pits about one inch deep in the soil.
The planted pits need a warm and brightly lit environment to encourage germination and initial growth. A sunny location, such as a south-facing window, is beneficial, or a grow light can be used. The soil must be kept consistently moist but never soggy, as young cherry trees are vulnerable to both drying out and waterlogging.
Germination can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, and once the seedling emerges, it is highly vulnerable. When the young cherry tree reaches six to twelve inches in height, gradually acclimate it to outdoor conditions over a week in a process called “hardening off.” The permanent planting site requires at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily and deep, fertile, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH.
Why Your Seed-Grown Tree Might Not Bear Expected Fruit
The biggest difference between a seed-grown cherry tree and one purchased from a nursery lies in its genetic identity, which is why the fruit it produces is often a genetic lottery. Commercial cherry varieties like ‘Bing’ are typically grown from grafts, creating a clone that guarantees the fruit quality. A seed, however, is the result of sexual reproduction, combining the genetics of two parent trees.
This genetic recombination means the resulting seedling tree will rarely “grow true to seed.” Its fruit will likely differ in size, flavor, and texture from the cherry it came from. The fruit may be smaller, more sour, or even inedible compared to the parent. Professional orchards avoid this genetic unpredictability by using grafting to ensure predictable crop quality.
Another reality of growing from a pit is the time commitment required before the tree matures enough to produce fruit. While grafted trees often begin bearing fruit within three to five years, a cherry tree grown from a seedling takes much longer to reach reproductive maturity. The tree may require anywhere from five to ten years of growth before producing its first harvest.