When a lush green lawn fades into a brittle brown, homeowners often assume the grass has died. However, this browning is usually a natural state of self-preservation known as dormancy. Grass enters this resting phase to protect its crown and roots from extreme environmental stressors like intense heat or prolonged drought. If the grass is merely dormant, it retains the capacity to turn green again when favorable conditions return, making revival possible.
Is Your Grass Dormant or Dead?
Determining the grass’s true condition is the first step, as a dead lawn cannot be revived. A simple diagnostic tool is the “tug test”: grasp a small handful of brown grass blades and gently pull upward. If the grass resists the pull and remains firmly anchored, the root system is intact, indicating dormancy. Dead grass, conversely, pulls out of the soil easily, confirming the root system has failed.
Another reliable method is to examine the grass crown, the base of the plant where the blades meet the roots. Gently dig up a small clump of the brown grass to inspect this area. If the crown is still a pale white or creamy color, the plant is alive and dormant. If the crown is brown, dry, and brittle, the grass plant is no longer viable and considered dead.
Primary Causes of Brown Turf
The brown appearance of turf is a direct response to stress, signaling that the plant is conserving energy and moisture. The most common cause is summer dormancy, triggered by severe drought or high temperatures that exceed the grass’s ability to take up water. Cool-season grasses, like Kentucky Bluegrass and Fescue, are prone to this dormancy during hot, dry summer months.
Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda or Zoysia, often enter a winter dormancy phase when temperatures drop below their ideal growing range. This predictable response causes the grass to lose its green color until spring. Other stressors include poor mowing practices, such as cutting the grass too short, or fungal diseases like brown patch. Diseases and pests often cause non-uniform, patchy areas of browning, unlike the widespread change seen in environmental dormancy.
The Action Plan for Revival
Reviving dormant grass requires a focused and patient approach centered on reintroducing deep moisture. The goal is to apply water deeply but infrequently, encouraging the roots to grow downward to seek out the moisture. Aim to provide one to two inches of water per week, including any rainfall, to prompt the grass to break dormancy.
Watering in the early morning, ideally between 6 a.m. and 10 a.m., minimizes water loss through evaporation and allows the blades to dry before nightfall. A deep soaking once a week is more beneficial than short, daily misting, as this trains the grass roots to seek water deeper in the soil. Consistent moisture is key, since forcing the turf to repeatedly alternate between active and dormant states causes unnecessary stress.
Avoid applying fertilizer during the initial revival phase, as this forces the stressed plant to put energy into growth instead of recovery. When mowing, raise the cutting deck to at least three to three and a half inches to prevent further stress. Taller blades provide shade to the soil, which helps reduce evaporation and retain moisture, aiding revival. Be patient, as it may take a week or longer of consistent watering for the green color to return.
Repairing Completely Dead Areas
For areas confirmed to be dead after the crown test, revival is not possible, and the section must be replaced. Begin the repair process by thoroughly raking out the dead thatch and loosening the top layer of soil. This ensures new seed or sod can establish direct contact with the soil.
To improve the soil, consider renting a core aerator to alleviate compaction, which allows air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the root zone more easily. After preparing the soil, you can choose between reseeding the bare patch or laying down new sod. Reseeding is cost-effective, involving mixing grass seed with compost or topsoil and keeping the area moist until germination. Laying sod provides instant repair but is more expensive and requires frequent watering until the new roots take hold.