When a lawn turns brown, it signals that the turfgrass plant is under significant stress, often due to high temperatures or drought conditions. While this discoloration is a common concern for homeowners, a brown color does not automatically indicate that the grass is dead. The fundamental distinction lies between a protective, temporary state called dormancy and permanent cellular failure. Understanding which state your lawn is in determines the correct path forward to restore a green, healthy appearance.
How to Determine if Grass is Dormant or Dead
Dormancy is a natural survival mechanism where the grass conserves energy by halting growth and sacrificing the green color of its blades. The plant’s crown, where the roots meet the shoots near the soil surface, remains alive and intact. A quick physical check, known as the “tug test,” helps determine the status of the crown and root system. Select a small handful of brown blades and give them a gentle pull; if you feel significant resistance, the roots are still firmly anchored, indicating the grass is likely dormant.
If the blades pull out of the soil easily, with little resistance, it suggests the root system has failed and the turf is dead. Another simple diagnostic is the “watering test,” where you apply about an inch of water to a small, brown section of the lawn. If the grass begins to show signs of greening within 48 to 72 hours, it confirms the browning was due to a lack of moisture, meaning the grass was simply dormant.
Observing the overall pattern of the brown areas offers clues about the lawn’s condition. Dormant grass typically browns uniformly across the entire lawn or large connected sections under widespread drought conditions. Conversely, dead grass often appears in irregular, distinct patches or circular spots, which can indicate localized problems like insect damage, disease, or chemical burns. When the entire lawn is consistently brown, it points toward a protective, dormant state.
A Step-by-Step Plan for Reviving Dormant Grass
Once it is established that the lawn is merely dormant, the focus must shift to rehydrating the turf without causing further stress. The most effective method is deep, infrequent watering, aiming for one to two inches of water per week, including any natural rainfall. This amount should be applied in a single session to encourage the roots to grow deeper into the soil.
The best time for deep watering is early in the morning, ideally between 6 a.m. and 10 a.m., which minimizes water loss from evaporation and allows the blades to dry before nightfall. It is important to avoid walking on the grass during the recovery phase, since the brittle dormant blades are susceptible to mechanical damage. Foot traffic can easily break the delicate crowns, which are the last living parts of the plant.
Adjusting mowing practices aids in recovery. If you must mow, set the mower blade to one of the highest settings, around 3.5 inches, to leave longer blades that shade the soil and reduce water evaporation. Avoid applying fertilizer while the grass is fully brown, as this can force a weak, stressful growth spurt that depletes the plant’s limited energy reserves. Only after the grass has begun to actively re-emerge and show new green growth should you consider a controlled-release fertilizer to sustain the recovery.
What to Do When the Lawn is Irrecoverably Damaged
If diagnostic tests confirm the grass is dead—meaning the blades pull out easily and the crowns are brittle—the only solution is to replace the damaged turf. The first step involves removing the dead material, which may require using a rake or a scarifier to clear away thatch and debris. This process exposes the bare soil and ensures new grass seed or sod can make direct contact with the ground.
Next, the soil must be prepared to create an environment for new growth. Aerating the area helps relieve soil compaction, which often contributes to turf failure, and allows water and nutrients to penetrate the surface. Adding a thin layer of topsoil or compost helps level the area and provides a nutrient-rich seedbed for successful germination.
Before reseeding or laying sod, address the underlying cause of the turf death, whether it was severe compaction, disease, or poor drainage. Once the soil is prepared, grass seed can be spread evenly and covered with a light layer of topdressing, or new sod can be laid directly over the prepared soil. Consistent moisture is necessary for the new seed to germinate or for the sod to successfully root into the ground.