Evergreens, typically conifers, retain their foliage year-round, so a sudden change from green to brown often causes alarm. This discoloration signals a serious physiological stressor, environmental or biological, that disrupts the plant’s ability to transport water and nutrients. While a fully brown evergreen may be dead, browning does not always mean the plant is lost. Recovery is often possible if the underlying cause is identified and corrected quickly. The first step is determining if the wood and roots still possess life.
Is Your Evergreen Still Alive
The most immediate concern when an evergreen turns brown is determining its viability using two simple diagnostic tests. The “scratch test” involves gently scraping a small patch of bark on an affected branch. If the tissue immediately beneath the outer bark is bright green and moist, the branch is alive and actively transporting sap. If the tissue is brown, dry, or grey, that section is dead.
Another simple assessment is the “flex test,” where a small twig or branch is carefully bent. A living branch will be pliable and bend without snapping. A dead branch, having lost moisture, will be brittle and break easily. Needles that have already turned completely brown will not revert to green, even if the plant recovers. Recovery depends entirely on the plant’s ability to produce new growth from still-living wood and buds.
True evergreens—like pines, spruces, and firs—retain their needles for several years. By contrast, deciduous conifers, such as Bald Cypress or Larch, naturally shed all their needles in the fall. This is a normal, seasonal occurrence and not a sign of distress. If testing confirms life in the wood, you can proceed to diagnose the source of the problem.
Primary Reasons for Evergreen Browning
Environmental and seasonal stressors are the most frequent causes of widespread browning. Winter desiccation, often called winter burn, occurs when frozen soil prevents roots from absorbing water. Needles continue to lose moisture to dry, cold winds and bright winter sun, resulting in the foliage drying out. This often appears most severe on the side of the plant facing prevailing winds or direct sunlight.
Drought stress is another common cause, as evergreens require consistent moisture to replace water lost through their needles, even outside of summer. A lack of water causes the plant to sacrifice older, interior needles first to conserve resources. This results in yellowing or browning that starts from the inside out or from the tips. Road salt applied in winter can also cause chemical burn and desiccation by drawing moisture away from the roots, leading to browning nearest the salted area.
Root issues are a major physiological problem, with poor drainage being a primary culprit. Overwatering or heavy, compacted soil can suffocate the fine root hairs, leading to fungal diseases like root rot. When roots cannot function properly, they cannot supply water to the canopy. The resulting symptoms—browning and wilting—closely mimic those of drought.
Biological agents like pests and diseases can also cause browning, typically following a distinct pattern. Pests such as spider mites cause stippling and discoloration on the needles, often leaving fine webbing visible before they turn brown. Fungal diseases like needle blight or stem cankers disrupt the vascular system, blocking the flow of water and nutrients. A canker, a sunken or discolored lesion on the bark, will cause all foliage distal to the infection point to turn brown.
Practical Steps for Recovery and Care
Once living wood is confirmed and the probable cause identified, immediate action must be taken to support recovery. Pruning is the first practical step, involving the removal of all confirmed dead or infected wood. This prevents the spread of disease and redirects the plant’s energy toward healthy tissue. Cuts should be made just beyond the point where the scratch test reveals green, living tissue.
Correcting the watering regimen is often the most impactful recovery step, especially after drought or winter burn. Provide a deep, slow watering that saturates the entire root zone. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to encourage healthy root growth. If root rot is suspected, stop watering immediately and allow the soil to dry completely to inhibit fungal activity.
Soil health can be improved by applying a two-to-four-inch layer of organic mulch over the root zone. This helps regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Ensure the mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk flare to prevent moisture from encouraging rot or pest infestation near the base. Fertilization should be avoided during recovery, as the plant needs to focus energy on healing, not excessive new growth.
For localized pest or disease issues, simple horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps can be applied after careful identification of the specific pest. If the browning is extensive or the diagnosis is uncertain, consulting a certified arborist is the most reliable way to create a targeted treatment plan. Consistent monitoring and preventive care, such as thorough deep watering in late fall before the ground freezes, will help prevent future desiccation.