The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is overwhelmingly associated with the winter season. Its vibrant red, white, or pink display is a familiar sight in homes and businesses during the holidays. This strong seasonal connection often leads to confusion about the plant’s true nature and longevity. Many assume the poinsettia is a short-lived plant that cannot survive beyond a single season.
The Botanical Truth: A Tropical Perennial
The common perception of the poinsettia as a temporary holiday decoration is far from its botanical reality. This plant is classified as a woody perennial shrub or small tree. In its native habitat, spanning the Pacific slope of Mexico and Central America, the poinsettia can grow up to 12 feet tall and live for many years. A perennial lives for more than two years, unlike an annual, which completes its life cycle in a single year. The showy, colored parts are modified leaves called bracts; the true flowers are the tiny, yellow structures clustered in the center.
Why They Are Sold as Seasonal Annuals
The disconnect between the poinsettia’s perennial nature and its seasonal treatment stems from climate and commercial practices. As a tropical plant, the poinsettia is sensitive to cold and suffers damage below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In non-tropical regions, it cannot survive outdoors during winter, requiring indoor maintenance. For most consumers, the specialized care needed to induce reblooming is impractical, leading to post-holiday disposal. Commercial growers also use dwarfing chemicals and strict environmental controls to produce a compact, fully colored plant precisely for the holiday window, reinforcing the view of the poinsettia as a disposable decoration.
Basic Care for Year-Round Survival
Keeping a poinsettia alive after the colored bracts fade requires maintaining its vegetative health. After the holidays, place the plant in a bright, draft-free location that receives at least six hours of indirect sunlight daily. Ideal indoor temperatures range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Proper watering is crucial, as the plant is susceptible to root rot. Allow the soil surface to dry to the touch before watering thoroughly, and immediately drain any excess water from the saucer or wrapping. In spring (around March or April), cut the stems back to about 6 inches to encourage new, bushier growth.
Once the danger of frost passes, move the plant outdoors to a partially shaded spot for the summer. During this active growth phase, fertilize every two to four weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Before nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit in the fall, bring the plant indoors to prepare for reblooming.
The Specifics of Inducing Rebloom
The process of forcing the poinsettia to develop its characteristic colored bracts relies on its classification as a short-day plant. This means that bract coloration and flower bud formation are triggered by a consistent period of long, uninterrupted darkness. This regimen must begin around late September or early October to ensure the plant is fully colored by the Christmas season.
The plant needs a minimum of 13 to 14 consecutive hours of absolute darkness every night. Even a brief flash of light from a streetlamp or television can disrupt the process and prevent coloration. During the day, the plant must be returned to a location with bright, indirect light for the remaining 10 to 11 hours.
This light manipulation must be strictly maintained for eight to ten weeks, or until the colored bracts begin to show their hue. Once the color is fully established, the plant no longer requires the darkness treatment. Throughout this reblooming phase, maintain slightly cooler nighttime temperatures, ideally in the low to mid-60s Fahrenheit.