Orchids, a diverse family of flowering plants known as Orchidaceae, have a reputation for being delicate and difficult to maintain. This perception has deterred many people from keeping these stunning flowers. However, the most common varieties sold today, particularly the Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, are surprisingly resilient and manageable. The key to success is recognizing that their requirements differ from those of typical potted plants, demanding a shift in approach rather than a high level of expertise.
Debunking the Myth: Why Orchids Get a Bad Reputation
The belief that orchids are hard to care for stems primarily from the sheer diversity of the family, which contains over 22,000 species, many having highly specialized environmental needs. When a new grower selects a complicated species, the resulting failure is often incorrectly attributed to all orchids. Another source of confusion is the unusual growing media; orchids are often sold in containers filled with chunky bark, moss, or perlite instead of traditional soil. This unfamiliar material causes new owners to treat the orchid like a standard houseplant, leading to problems like root rot from overwatering. Furthermore, most orchids are purchased while in full bloom, having been forced to flower in a commercial greenhouse. When the blooms naturally drop after several months, the owner often assumes the plant is dead, discarding it before the vegetative growth cycle begins.
The Three Pillars of Easy Orchid Care
Providing the correct balance of light, water, and potting medium is fundamental to keeping a common houseplant orchid healthy. Phalaenopsis orchids thrive in bright, indirect light, such as from an east-facing window or a shaded south or west window. Insufficient light is the most frequent reason orchids fail to bloom, but direct midday sun can easily scorch their leaves. Proper watering involves thoroughly soaking the potting medium until water drains completely, then allowing the medium to dry out almost entirely before watering again. Using an ice cube for watering is not recommended, as the shock of the cold water can damage the plant’s tropical roots.
The frequency of watering depends heavily on the potting medium and environment, often ranging from every 5 to 10 days. A simple visual cue is the color of the exposed roots, which turn silvery-white when dry and ready for water. Orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other plants or trees rather than in soil, and their roots require significant air circulation. Standard potting soil is detrimental because it compacts the roots and traps too much moisture. The chunky bark or sphagnum moss used in orchid pots mimics their natural environment, promoting necessary drainage and air movement.
Selecting the Right Beginner Species
The level of care required depends upon the specific species, making selection the first step toward success. The Phalaenopsis or Moth Orchid is the top recommendation for beginners due to its tolerance for common household temperatures and lower light levels. This species is responsible for over 80% of all orchid sales in the United States. Another forgiving choice is the Cattleya, often called the Queen of Orchids, which is famous for its large, fragrant blooms and its ability to withstand slightly brighter light.
Oncidium orchids, sometimes known as Dancing Ladies, are also suitable for novices and offer sprays of numerous, smaller flowers. These plants are adaptable to varying light levels and are known for being fast growers. Starting with one of these three easy-to-grow genera allows a new owner to master fundamental care principles without the stress of catering to a demanding specimen.
Encouraging Reblooming
Getting a healthy orchid to rebloom requires providing specific environmental cues that signal the shift from vegetative growth to flowering. The primary trigger for reblooming in Phalaenopsis orchids is a drop in nighttime temperature for several weeks. Growers should aim for a difference of about 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit between day and night, with the nighttime temperature falling into the 55 to 65°F range. This temperature differential simulates the cooler conditions that initiate the development of a new flower spike.
Once the initial flowers have dropped, the old flower spike should be cut either completely at the base or just above a lower node (a small bump on the stem). Cutting above a node allows the plant to produce a secondary bloom, although many growers prefer to cut the spike low to encourage energy toward new root and leaf growth. During the resting phase, many growers switch to a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus ratio, which promotes flowering once the temperature cue is provided.