The question of whether a daisy is a perennial plant does not have a simple yes or no answer because the common name “daisy” is used for many different species with varied lifecycles. Daisies belong to the large Asteraceae family, and depending on the specific genus and species, the plant may live for just one season, two seasons, or many years.
Understanding Plant Lifecycles
Plant lifecycles are broadly categorized by how long a species takes to complete its reproductive cycle, from germination to seed production.
An annual plant completes its entire reproductive cycle within a single growing season and dies once the seeds mature. These plants do not survive through the winter months.
A biennial plant requires two full growing seasons to complete its lifecycle. The first year is dedicated to vegetative growth, typically forming a rosette of leaves and a robust root system. The second year, the plant flowers, produces seed, and then dies back completely.
A perennial plant is defined by its ability to live for three or more years, returning year after year from the same root structure. These plants often lose their above-ground foliage in winter, but the root crown remains alive underground, ready to sprout new growth when temperatures warm in the spring. Perennials offer the benefit of permanent establishment.
Identifying Common Daisy Varieties
The most popular plants referred to as daisies represent all three of these lifecycles, which is why a definitive answer is complicated.
The Shasta Daisy, Leucanthemum × superbum, is the classic white-petaled flower most people visualize, and it is a true perennial. This variety is known to be hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 9, but it is considered a short-lived perennial, often needing replacement or division every few years to maintain its vigor.
The Oxeye Daisy, Leucanthemum vulgare, is another common type found in meadows and along roadsides, and it is a hardy perennial wildflower. This species spreads aggressively through both seeds and underground rhizomes, making it highly resilient and adaptable to various conditions.
The English Daisy, Bellis perennis, is hardy in Zones 4 through 8, and is technically a short-lived perennial, but it is often grown as a biennial or annual. It freely self-seeds, which creates the illusion of a permanent perennial presence year after year.
The colorful Gerbera Daisy, Gerbera jamesonii, is botanically a tender perennial native to South Africa. It survives outdoors in mild climates (USDA Zones 8 through 11). In most colder regions, it is typically grown as an annual because it cannot withstand freezing temperatures. Its deep root system makes overwintering indoors difficult, so most gardeners treat it as a seasonal planting.
Cultivating Longevity in Perennial Daisies
To ensure the perennial daisy varieties, like the Shasta Daisy, return and flourish, specific maintenance practices are necessary. The first consideration is always the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone, which determines whether a plant can survive the average minimum winter temperature in a specific location. Planting a perennial rated for a warmer zone in a colder climate means it will likely be killed by the cold and must be treated as an annual.
Deadheading
Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers, prolongs the blooming season and conserves the plant’s energy. Removing fading flower heads before they set seed redirects resources toward producing new buds. For Shasta Daisies, this encourages a tidier appearance and can help stimulate a second flush of blooms in the late summer.
Division
Perennial daisies benefit significantly from division, a practice that reinvigorates the plant and prevents overcrowding. Shasta Daisies, in particular, are considered short-lived and should be dug up and separated every two to four years to maintain their vigor. Signs that a clump needs dividing include fewer or smaller flowers, or a dead center in the plant’s crown.
Winter Preparation
Preparation for winter is also important for survival in colder regions, even for hardy perennial varieties. After the first killing frost, the foliage should be cut back to just an inch or two above the soil line to remove dead plant material. Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, over the crown helps insulate the roots and prevents the soil from rapidly freezing and thawing, which can damage the roots through a process called heaving.