Amaryllis and lilies, both cherished for their striking blossoms, are often confused due to similar appearances and misleading common names, though they are distinctly different. This article clarifies their distinctions and provides cultivation information.
Understanding the Differences
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) and true Lilies (Lilium) belong to separate plant families. Amaryllis is native to tropical and subtropical South America, while Lilies originate in temperate Northern Hemisphere regions like Europe, North America, and Asia.
Their growth habits and appearances differ. Hippeastrum grows from a large, round bulb, producing one or two stout, hollow flower stalks 1 to 2 feet tall, often before leaves emerge. Its leaves are strap-like, fleshy, and up to 2 feet long. True Lilies produce leafy stems from scaly bulbs, with leaves varying from linear to lance-shaped, arranged alternately or in whorls along the stem.
Flower structures also differ. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers are large, trumpet-shaped (6-10 inches long), with two to six blooms per stalk. They have six petal-like segments (tepals) and come in shades of red, white, pink, salmon, or orange, often with striped or multicolored varieties. True Lilies display a wider variety of forms, including trumpet, turban, or bowl shapes, with six fragrant petal-like segments in a broad range of colors, excluding blue.
Blooming seasons also differentiate them. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) bulbs are often forced to bloom indoors during winter, but their natural period is late winter to mid-spring (February to April). True Lilies, as outdoor garden perennials, generally bloom from late spring through late summer, with timing dependent on variety (e.g., Asiatic in mid-to-late spring, Oriental in mid-to-late summer).
Caring for Amaryllis
Caring for Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) as an indoor potted plant involves specific steps for vibrant blooms and reblooming. When planting, ensure approximately one-third of the bulb remains exposed above the soil line in a pot only slightly larger than the bulb, promoting a “potbound” condition that encourages flowering. Use a well-draining potting mix and a container with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
During active growth and blooming, Amaryllis thrives in bright, indirect light. Place in a warm location (68-70°F) to aid stem development. Water sparingly until the flower stalk emerges, then gradually increase watering as the bud and leaves appear, allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot.
Fertilization supports healthy growth and future blooms. After initial bloom, water and fertilize regularly through spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two to four weeks. This allows leaves to photosynthesize and store energy in the bulb for the next blooming cycle.
To encourage reblooming, a dormancy period is necessary. Once leaves yellow (typically early fall), cease watering and allow foliage to die back naturally. Cut leaves back to about 2 inches from the bulb and store the potted bulb in a cool, dark place (around 50°F) for 8 to 10 weeks. After dormancy, repot or refresh soil, resume watering, and place the bulb in a warm, bright location to initiate a new bloom cycle.
Caring for Lilies
True Lilies (Lilium species) are outdoor garden perennials with distinct care requirements. Plant lily bulbs deeper than Amaryllis bulbs, generally 4 to 8 inches deep, pointed side upwards. This depth supports stem roots that form above the bulb and absorb nutrients. Lilies prefer full sun to partial shade, ideally with “heads” in sun and “feet” in shade, achievable by planting low-growing ground cover around them.
Well-draining soil is important for lily health; overly moist conditions can lead to bulb rot. A porous, loamy soil rich in organic matter is ideal. Consistent moisture is important, especially during active growing season, but avoid overwatering.
Fertilize lilies in spring with a balanced organic fertilizer to support growth. Taller varieties may require staking to prevent stems from bending or breaking, particularly in windy conditions. Deadheading, which involves removing spent flowers, redirects the plant’s energy from seed production back into the bulb, promoting stronger future blooms.
For lilies in colder climates, winter dormancy preparation is important. After blooming, allow foliage to remain until it yellows and dies back naturally, as these leaves store energy in the bulb for the next season. Lilies are hardy and can be left in the ground through winter.
Important Safety Considerations
Both Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) and true Lilies (Lilium) contain compounds toxic if ingested, posing risks to pets and humans. All Amaryllis plant parts are toxic, with the bulb containing the highest concentration of harmful alkaloids. Ingestion can lead to symptoms like vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and tremors.
True Lilies, particularly Lilium species, are severely toxic to cats. Even small ingestions (e.g., nibbling leaves, stems, flowers, or drinking vase water) can lead to acute kidney failure. Symptoms in cats include vomiting, lethargy, loss of appetite, and increased urination followed by decreased urination.
While less severe than for cats, lilies can cause gastrointestinal upset in dogs and humans. Daylilies (Hemerocallis), often confused with true lilies, also pose a toxicity risk to cats. For safety, keep Amaryllis and Lilies out of reach of pets and children. If ingestion is suspected, consult a veterinarian or poison control immediately.