Synthetic retinol is a lab-created version of Vitamin A, also known as a retinoid, widely used in skincare. It is effective in addressing various skin concerns and improving skin appearance and texture.
Understanding Synthetic Retinol
Synthetic retinol is a stable form of Vitamin A that mimics the effects of natural retinoids. It functions at a cellular level by promoting accelerated cell turnover, which involves shedding old skin cells and generating new ones. This process also stimulates the production of collagen, a protein that provides firmness and elasticity to the skin.
The term “retinoid” is an umbrella term for various Vitamin A derivatives, including synthetic forms. Common synthetic retinoids found in skincare products include retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, tretinoin, and adapalene. Retinaldehyde is considered more potent than retinol, requiring fewer conversion steps to become active. Tretinoin is the most potent and requires a prescription.
Key Benefits for Skin
Synthetic retinol offers multiple benefits for the skin. It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. By promoting collagen production and accelerating skin cell turnover, it helps to improve overall skin texture and firmness, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.
Synthetic retinol is also effective in treating acne. It helps clear pores by preventing the buildup of dead skin cells and oils, which can lead to blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Retinol also reduces inflammation and regulates sebum production, contributing to fewer breakouts and better management of oily skin.
It also addresses hyperpigmentation, including dark spots, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It works by accelerating skin cell renewal, which helps remove pigmented cells from the surface, and by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. Consistent use can lead to a more even skin tone and a brighter, smoother complexion.
Synthetic vs. Naturally Derived Retinol
Synthetic retinol, manufactured in laboratories, offers consistent potency, purity, and stability in cosmetic products.
Naturally derived retinol is found in plant sources like rosehip oil, sea buckthorn berry oil, and carrots, which contain beta-carotene and other carotenoids that the body can convert into Vitamin A. While these natural alternatives are generally gentler and may be suitable for sensitive skin, they often take longer to show noticeable results and may be less potent than their synthetic counterparts.
Bakuchiol, a plant-derived compound from the Psoralea corylifolia plant, is considered a natural alternative to retinol. It offers similar benefits, such as stimulating collagen production, improving skin texture, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles, but with a milder side effect profile. However, bakuchiol is not a true retinoid, as it does not directly bind to retinoid receptors in the same way.
Important Considerations for Use
When incorporating synthetic retinol into a skincare routine, it is important to begin slowly to allow the skin to adjust. Start with a lower concentration, such as 0.025%, and apply it only once or twice a week, typically in the evening. As the skin builds tolerance, the frequency can be gradually increased to every other night or nightly, if tolerated. Using a pea-sized amount is generally sufficient for the entire face.
Common initial side effects include redness, dryness, peeling, or irritation, often referred to as “retinol purge.” These reactions usually subside as the skin adapts. If irritation becomes intense, it is advisable to reduce the frequency of application or temporarily stop use until the skin calms down. Pairing retinol with a hydrating moisturizer can help mitigate dryness and maintain skin barrier health.
Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is necessary when using synthetic retinol. While retinol itself may not directly cause photosensitivity, its exfoliating action reveals newer, more delicate skin that is more vulnerable to UV damage. Skipping sunscreen can lead to sunburn, irritation, dark spots, and premature aging.
Synthetic retinol should be avoided by individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding. While the amount absorbed into the bloodstream from topical application is generally minimal, the lack of definitive studies on its transfer to breast milk and potential effects on a nursing infant warrants caution.
Certain ingredients should not be combined with synthetic retinol, especially when starting, to avoid excessive irritation or reduced efficacy. Avoid layering retinol with strong acids like AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), as both are exfoliants and can lead to over-exfoliation and increased sensitivity.
Vitamin C, particularly in its pure form, can also be irritating; it is often recommended to use Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. Benzoyl peroxide, an acne treatment, can deactivate retinol and cause further irritation, so these ingredients should be used at different times of the day if both are needed.