Artificial silk is a general term for manufactured fibers designed to replicate the appearance and feel of natural silk. These materials are not one specific substance but encompass a variety of fibers developed to offer a similar luster, softness, and drape to traditional silk. The primary purpose of these alternatives is to provide a more accessible and affordable option compared to the delicate nature of silk derived from silkworms.
Development and Types of Artificial Silk
The pursuit of a silk substitute began in the late 19th century. Early successful versions, developed in the 1890s, were made from cellulose fiber and marketed as “art silk.” This term eventually gave way to more specific names as different production methods and source materials were perfected, leading to a wide range of fibers that fall under the artificial silk category today.
These silk-like fabrics are broadly divided into two main groups based on their origin. The first group consists of semi-synthetic fibers made from natural polymers, primarily cellulose from wood pulp or other plant materials. The most prominent members of this family are rayons, which include viscose, modal, and lyocell. Each possesses a silk-like drape and smoothness, with variations in strength and texture.
The second group includes fully synthetic fibers derived from petroleum-based chemicals through polymerization. Nylon, developed in the late 1930s, was one of the first major synthetic fibers and served as a functional replacement for silk in military applications like parachutes during World War II. Polyester is another common synthetic polymer known for its durability and wrinkle resistance, often blended with other fibers to mimic silk’s appearance.
The Manufacturing Process
The viscose method for producing rayon is a classic example that illustrates this conversion. It begins with purified cellulose, typically extracted from wood pulp, which is treated with a sodium hydroxide solution to convert it into alkali cellulose. This substance is then aged and treated with liquid carbon disulfide, which transforms the cellulose into a thick, honey-like orange liquid called viscose.
The solution is filtered to remove impurities and then forced through a spinneret, a device resembling a shower head with many microscopic holes. The spinneret is submerged in a chemical bath, usually containing sulfuric acid. As the streams of viscose solution emerge from the spinneret, the acid bath causes the cellulose to regenerate and solidify, forming long, continuous filaments.
These newly formed filaments are then stretched to align their molecules, which increases their strength and luster. After being washed to remove any residual chemicals, the filaments are dried and wound onto spools. From there, they can be woven or knitted into fabrics that possess the characteristic sheen and drape associated with artificial silk.
Key Differences from Natural Silk
Natural silk, a protein fiber produced by silkworms, has a unique triangular prism-like structure that refracts light, giving it a characteristic shimmer rather than a simple shine. Artificial silks like rayon and polyester have a more uniform surface, resulting in a consistent luster that can sometimes appear less complex. The texture of real silk may also feature minor irregularities from its hand-processing, whereas manufactured fibers are perfectly uniform.
In terms of performance, natural silk is strong for its lightweight, but it weakens when wet. Many artificial silks, particularly viscose rayon, are weaker when exposed to moisture and can be more prone to stretching or damage during washing. Conversely, synthetic fibers like polyester are more durable for regular wear and less susceptible to water damage, though they lack the natural strength-to-weight ratio of silk.
Breathability is another point of contrast. As a natural protein, silk is highly breathable and wicks moisture, making it comfortable in various temperatures. Many synthetic alternatives, especially polyester, are less permeable and can trap heat and moisture against the skin. Care requirements also differ; natural silk demands gentle hand washing or dry cleaning, while many artificial silks like polyester and modal can be machine washed. Finally, the most apparent difference is cost, with natural silk being considerably more expensive due to its labor-intensive and resource-limited production process.
Common Applications in Products
The versatility of artificial silk has made it a staple in both the fashion and home decor industries. Its ability to drape elegantly makes it a popular choice for a wide range of clothing items. You can commonly find it in women’s blouses, dresses, skirts, and lingerie, as well as in the linings of suits and coats where a smooth finish is desired. Scarves and other accessories also frequently use these materials to achieve a luxurious look.
Beyond apparel, artificial silk is widely used in home furnishings. Its attractive sheen and flow make it an ideal material for curtains and drapery, adding a touch of elegance to a room. The material is also found in decorative items such as upholstery for light-use furniture, throw pillows, and cushion covers. In the bedroom, some bedsheets and comforter sets use artificial silk fibers to provide a soft, smooth feel against the skin.