An azelaic acid peel is a type of chemical peel that utilizes azelaic acid, a dicarboxylic acid, to gently exfoliate the skin. It improves various skin concerns by promoting cell renewal and addressing inflammation and uneven tone. This peel is known for being a gentler option compared to some other chemical peels, making it suitable for a wider range of skin types, including sensitive skin.
How Azelaic Acid Works on Skin
Azelaic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in grains like wheat, barley, and rye, functions through several distinct mechanisms when applied to the skin. It possesses antimicrobial properties, specifically targeting bacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which are implicated in acne development. This action helps to reduce bacterial populations on the skin’s surface and within pores, thereby preventing inflammatory lesions.
Azelaic acid also exhibits anti-inflammatory capabilities. It works by neutralizing free radicals and modulating the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which are signaling molecules that contribute to redness and swelling in conditions like acne and rosacea. The acid also influences keratinization, the process of skin cell production. It normalizes abnormal keratinization, which can lead to clogged hair follicles and the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), thus promoting clearer pores and preventing new breakouts.
Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. By reducing melanin synthesis, it helps to diminish hyperpigmentation and promote a more even skin tone. This selective inhibition targets overactive melanocytes without affecting normal skin pigmentation.
Conditions Treated by Azelaic Acid Peels
Azelaic acid peels are commonly employed to address a spectrum of skin conditions. For individuals with acne, azelaic acid is effective against both inflammatory lesions (like papules and pustules) and non-inflammatory ones (such as blackheads and whiteheads). Its antibacterial action helps reduce acne-causing bacteria, and its ability to normalize keratinization prevents clogged pores.
Rosacea, a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by redness and bumps, also responds well to azelaic acid peels. Its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties help to calm irritation and reduce the visible redness and swelling associated with rosacea. Studies have shown its effectiveness in improving rosacea symptoms.
Hyperpigmentation, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma, is another primary target for azelaic acid peels. PIH manifests as dark spots after skin inflammation or acne, while melasma is characterized by brown or gray patches often triggered by hormonal changes. These conditions benefit from azelaic acid’s ability to reduce melanin production, leading to a brighter and more even skin tone.
The Azelaic Acid Peel Procedure
Undergoing an azelaic acid peel involves a professional setting, such as a dermatologist’s office or a medical spa. The procedure begins with a thorough cleansing of the skin to prepare it for the peel solution. A degreasing agent may be applied to enhance the penetration of the azelaic acid.
A protective cream is applied to sensitive areas like around the eyes and lips to prevent irritation. The azelaic acid solution is then applied evenly to the treatment area. During this phase, individuals might experience a mild tingling or warming sensation, which subsides quickly.
The peel solution is left on the skin for a short duration, between 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the acid’s concentration and skin sensitivity. Following the designated time, the peel is neutralized and gently removed with cool water. The entire process, from preparation to removal, is quick, taking less than 30 minutes.
Post-Peel Care and Expectations
Following an azelaic acid peel, proper post-treatment care is important to support the healing process and optimize results. Immediately after the peel, the skin may appear mildly red and feel somewhat tight or sensitive, similar to a light sunburn. These initial reactions subside within a few days.
For the days following the peel, cleanse the skin gently using mild, fragrance-free cleansers and cool water. Regular application of a hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer is recommended to keep the skin moisturized and aid in recovery. Avoiding direct sun exposure is important, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher should be applied daily to protect the newly revealed skin from UV damage and prevent hyperpigmentation.
It is advisable to avoid strenuous exercise for 24 to 48 hours post-peel, as excessive sweating can irritate the treated area. Refrain from picking at any flaking or peeling skin, as this can lead to scarring. While some mild flaking is possible, not all individuals will experience noticeable peeling, but the exfoliation still occurs at a microscopic level.