A topical emollient is a moisturizing treatment applied to the skin to soothe and hydrate it. These products form a protective film on the skin’s surface, trapping existing moisture. Their purpose is to relieve dryness, itching, and scaling, improving skin comfort and appearance. Emollients are often recommended for skin conditions where the barrier is compromised, leading to increased water loss.
How Emollients Benefit the Skin
Emollients improve skin hydration and barrier function through multiple mechanisms. One primary action is occlusion, where emollients create a physical, hydrophobic layer on the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum. This layer acts as a barrier, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water evaporation from the skin. By minimizing TEWL, occlusive emollients help maintain the skin’s natural moisture content, leading to improved hydration and reduced dryness. For example, petrolatum can reduce TEWL by up to 99%.
Emollients also incorporate humectants that attract and retain moisture from the environment. These molecules form hydrogen bonds with water, pulling it into the skin’s superficial layers. Common humectants include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and urea, which increase skin hydration. However, in very dry conditions, humectants may draw water from deeper skin layers if not combined with occlusives.
Beyond moisture retention, emollients contribute to repairing the skin’s natural barrier. This barrier is composed of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Emollients help replenish these lipids and promote their synthesis, restoring the barrier’s integrity. A strengthened skin barrier not only reduces water loss but also prevents irritants and pathogens from entering the skin, mitigating inflammation and enhancing skin health.
Different Forms of Emollients
Topical emollients come in various forms, each with a different oil-to-water ratio influencing consistency and effectiveness. Lotions, for instance, have a high water content and a lower fat content, making them thin and easy to spread. They are absorbed quickly and feel less greasy, making them suitable for hairy areas or for daytime use, though they are not the most intensely moisturizing option.
Creams contain a balanced mixture of fat and water, offering a medium consistency. They are lighter than ointments, absorb quickly, and are less greasy, often preferred for daytime application. However, creams require preservatives due to their water content, which can cause sensitivity in some individuals.
Ointments possess the highest lipid content and the least water, resulting in a thick, greasy texture. Their occlusive effect is stronger, making them highly effective at trapping moisture and repairing the skin barrier, especially for very dry or thickened skin. Ointments are often used at night or for severely dry areas, and they contain fewer preservatives, making them suitable for sensitive skin. Balms, similar to ointments, are very rich and highly occlusive, providing intense hydration and protection.
Common Uses and Application Tips
Topical emollients manage various dry, itchy, or scaly skin conditions. They are frequently recommended for individuals with eczema, psoriasis, and ichthyosis, helping to prevent patches of inflammation and reduce flare-ups. Emollients also benefit general dry skin, chapped lips, and can soothe skin irritated by environmental factors. Regular use helps maintain skin suppleness and moisture, even when symptoms are not present.
For maximum effectiveness, emollients should be applied liberally and frequently, at least twice daily, or more often if the skin is very dry. A good time for application is immediately after bathing or showering, as this helps to trap the moisture absorbed by the skin. The emollient should be smoothed gently into the skin in the direction of hair growth, rather than rubbed vigorously, to prevent blocking hair follicles.
It is safe to apply emollients as often as needed, as they do not contain active medicinal ingredients that can be overused. Individuals may find that using different forms of emollients throughout the day, such as a lighter cream during the day and a thicker ointment at night, works best for their skin needs. For babies, applying emollients to hands and cheeks before mealtimes can help protect against irritation from food and drink.