A reifrock, a historical undergarment, served as a foundational element in shaping women’s fashion silhouettes. This intricate structure created specific volumes and forms beneath outer skirts. It allowed for dramatic and often exaggerated shapes characteristic of various historical periods.
What is a Reifrock
The reifrock functioned as a type of hoop petticoat, also known as a farthingale, creating considerable volume and a distinct conical or bell-shaped silhouette for skirts. Its fundamental structure comprised a series of hoops, typically increasing in circumference towards the bottom. These hoops were meticulously held in place by vertical tapes or fabric channels, creating the desired expansive shape. The term “reifrock” is German, often used broadly to describe these undergarments, sometimes interchangeably with terms like crinoline or farthingale, depending on the historical period and geographical context.
The Reifrock’s Historical Journey
The reifrock’s lineage traces back to the Spanish farthingale, or verdugado, emerging in the late 15th century to create a stiff, conical shape. As fashion evolved, similar hooped structures adapted across various European courts, influencing distinct national styles. By the 17th century, the farthingale’s form shifted, becoming more rounded or even wheel-like, particularly in England. The 18th century saw wider side-to-side volumes with French paniers, creating extreme horizontal expansion. Each adaptation reflected the prevailing aesthetic preferences for skirt volume and overall silhouette.
Crafting the Reifrock
Reifrock construction involved specific materials and skilled craftsmanship. Early hoops were often made from natural materials such as whalebone, flexible yet strong, or cane and rattan, providing lightweight support. As technology advanced, metal wire and spring steel became common choices for their durability and ability to maintain shape.
These rigid materials were meticulously encased within fabric channels, typically sturdy linen or cotton. The prepared hoops were then sewn onto a series of vertical tapes or directly into a fabric petticoat, suspended from a waistband or sometimes directly from a bodice. This intricate assembly ensured the garment was both supportive and comfortable for the wearer.
Reifrock in Contemporary Context
Today, the reifrock maintains its relevance primarily in historical reenactments, where accurate construction is paramount for authentic period silhouettes. Theatrical productions, opera, and film often utilize these undergarments for visual accuracy. Modern designers also draw inspiration from the reifrock’s volumetric principles, adapting its shaping techniques for contemporary fashion. This influence can be seen in avant-garde collections or bridal wear, where designers might employ modern materials to recreate similar dramatic volumes, blending historical form with present-day innovation.