Mescal Ceniza is a distinctive expression within the vast world of mezcal, a spirit deeply rooted in Mexican tradition. Its name, “Ceniza” (Spanish for “ash”), hints at the artisanal process it undergoes. This mezcal distinguishes itself through its unique agave source and time-honored creation methods, offering an authentic and nuanced taste experience.
The Agave Cenizo: Agave durangensis
The foundation of Mescal Ceniza lies in the Agave durangensis plant, also known as agave Cenizo, which thrives predominantly in the rugged landscapes of Durango, Mexico. This agave species flourishes in the semi-arid to arid environments of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range. Its preferred habitat is characterized by warm, sunny days and cool nights, coupled with well-drained, rocky soils at elevations ranging from approximately 1,500 to 2,400 meters above sea level. This unique terroir influences the agave’s development, contributing to the spirit’s distinct character.
Agave durangensis is a slow-growing succulent, forming a large rosette of thick, fleshy, ashy-green leaves that can reach up to 1.8 meters in diameter. It patiently absorbs the essence of its environment over a period of 10 to 15 years before reaching maturity for harvest. Like all agaves used for mezcal, Agave durangensis is monocarpic, meaning it flowers only once in its lifetime, producing a towering stalk up to 7 to 8 meters tall, after which the parent plant dies. This extended growth cycle allows for a significant accumulation of sugars, crucial for the subsequent fermentation process.
The Traditional Production Process
The crafting of Mescal Ceniza involves a traditional, labor-intensive process that preserves centuries-old techniques. Harvesters carefully select mature agave piñas, the hearts of the plant. The leaves are meticulously cut away, and the dense piñas are then transported to the palenque, the mezcal distillery. There, the piñas undergo a slow roasting in underground earthen ovens, known as hornos.
A fire is built within the pit, and hot stones, often volcanic rocks, are placed over the embers. The agave piñas are arranged on these heated stones, then covered with agave fibers (bagaso), tarpaulins, and a layer of earth to seal the oven. This roasting process, which can last from three to fifteen days, is fundamental in converting the agave’s starches into fermentable sugars and imparting the characteristic smoky flavor unique to mezcal. Following roasting, the cooked agave is crushed to extract its juices and fibers. This is traditionally achieved using a large stone tahona wheel, often pulled by a mule, or by hand using mallets.
The crushed agave, a mixture of juice and fibers, is then transferred to open-air wooden vats for natural fermentation. Indigenous airborne yeasts transform the sugars into alcohol. This fermentation can take one to three weeks, influenced by ambient temperatures and humidity. Finally, the fermented liquid, known as tepache, along with the agave fibers, undergoes distillation, typically twice, in copper or clay stills. The choice of still material and the careful monitoring of the distillation process by the maestro mezcalero significantly influence the purity and final flavor profile of the Mescal Ceniza.
Flavor Profile
Mescal Ceniza offers a distinct flavor profile and sensory experience, directly influenced by the Agave durangensis and its traditional preparation. Upon tasting, one can expect a blend of herbal, citrusy, and earthy notes. The prolonged roasting of the agave piñas imparts a signature smoky character, a hallmark of many mezcals. Beyond these prominent flavors, subtle hints of minerality may emerge, reflecting the rocky soils where the agave matured.
Some expressions might also reveal sweeter undertones, reminiscent of cooked agave, honey, or caramel. The mouthfeel is often described as thick and viscous, allowing the flavors to linger on the palate. This combination of aromas and tastes sets Mescal Ceniza apart, showcasing the deep connection between the agave, its growing environment, and the artisanal production methods.
How to Drink Mescal Ceniza
To fully appreciate Mescal Ceniza, it is recommended to enjoy it neat, allowing its complex flavors to unfold without dilution. It is best served at room temperature, as chilling can suppress the nuanced aromas and tastes that define the spirit. Traditional copita or veladora glasses, with their wide openings, are ideal for sipping, as they allow the drinker to fully engage with the mezcal’s aromatic qualities. Taking small, contemplative sips helps to acclimate the palate to the spirit’s alcohol content and reveal its deeper flavors.
Mescal Ceniza also pairs well with various foods. A common and traditional accompaniment is a slice of orange served with sal de gusano, a savory salt made from chili and agave worm, which complements the mezcal’s character. Beyond this, its versatility extends to traditional Mexican dishes such as rich moles or savory tlayudas. The spirit’s smoky notes complement grilled meats and roasted vegetables, while its underlying sweetness can harmonize with dark chocolate or fruit-based desserts.