The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is a popular indoor plant recognized for its large, glossy, violin-shaped leaves. Pruning is a beneficial practice for these plants, contributing to their overall health and enhancing their aesthetic appeal. Regular pruning helps maintain the plant’s shape and encourages robust growth.
Why and When to Prune
Pruning a Fiddle Leaf Fig offers several advantages for its development and appearance. It encourages fuller, bushier growth by stimulating new shoots and leaves, and helps control the plant’s size and shape. Removing dead, damaged, or diseased leaves and branches redirects energy to healthy growth and improves air circulation, reducing pest and disease risk.
The best time to prune is during its active growing season (spring or early summer), when the plant has ample light and warmth for recovery and new growth. Minor pruning, such as removing damaged leaves, can be done anytime. Signs a Fiddle Leaf Fig needs pruning include discolored or damaged leaves, excessive growth, or an unbalanced shape.
Essential Pruning Tools
Sharp, clean pruning shears are necessary for precise cuts, minimizing plant stress and preventing disease spread. Rubbing alcohol sterilizes shears before and between cuts. Gloves are recommended, as the milky sap can irritate skin. A clean rag or towel helps wipe sap from cuts and clean tools.
Pruning Techniques
Before cutting, observe your Fiddle Leaf Fig to determine the desired shape and identify dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Do not remove more than 10% of the plant’s foliage at one time to avoid shocking it. Always make clean cuts with sharp, sterilized tools.
To control height and encourage a bushier top, “topping” involves cutting the main stem at the desired height, just above a leaf node. This redirects the plant’s growth hormone, auxin, encouraging dormant buds below the cut to sprout new branches, often resulting in two or more new growths.
For encouraging branching lower down a leggy stem, “notching” involves a small incision into the trunk just above a node. This cut disrupts growth hormones, signaling dormant buds to develop into new branches. Make a diagonal cut about one-third into the stem, or remove a small triangular piece of bark. Ensure the cut is deep enough to see milky sap, indicating hormonal flow is affected. This technique works best on woody stems and produces new branches in several weeks.
When removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches or leaves, cut them at the base where they meet the main stem or trunk. If a branch is completely dead, cut it back until white sap appears, indicating living tissue. Always aim for a clean, precise cut to promote proper healing and prevent infection.
After Pruning Care
After pruning, your Fiddle Leaf Fig needs care to recover and thrive. Position the plant in bright, indirect sunlight, as light fuels recovery and new growth. Adequate light is important for photosynthesis, providing the energy needed for healing.
Adjust your watering routine immediately after pruning. The plant may temporarily require less water because it has fewer leaves to transpire moisture. Monitor soil moisture carefully, allowing the top few inches to dry out before watering again to prevent overwatering and root issues. Avoid fertilizing immediately after pruning; wait a few weeks until you observe signs of new growth.
The plant may experience some leaf drop or show signs of stress after pruning. Continue to observe your plant for any unusual changes or signs of distress. Gently dabbing the fresh cuts with a clean, damp cloth can help with the healing process.
Propagating Fiddle Leaf Fig Cuttings
Pruning a Fiddle Leaf Fig often provides ideal cuttings for propagation. Select a healthy stem cutting 6-12 inches long with at least one or two leaves, ensuring it includes a leaf node where roots will develop. Make a clean cut at a 45-degree angle just below a node to maximize the surface area for rooting.
Two common methods for propagating Fiddle Leaf Fig cuttings are in water or in soil. For water propagation, fill a clean glass or vase with filtered or distilled water, submerging the leaf node and stem while keeping leaves above water. Place in a warm spot with bright, indirect light and change the water weekly. Roots begin to form within a few weeks, and the cutting can be transplanted into soil once roots are 1-3 inches long.
For soil propagation, prepare a pot with a well-draining potting mix, such as a blend of perlite and peat moss. Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone powder or gel. Plant the cutting directly into moist soil, ensuring at least one node is buried.
Covering the potted cutting with a clear plastic bag creates a humid environment, aiding rooting. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and place the pot in bright, indirect light. Roots establish within 4-6 weeks.