Tulip Double Shake offers a captivating display for any garden, distinguishing itself with unique visual characteristics. Its ruffled petals and vibrant color shifts create an eye-catching spectacle, making it a favored choice among gardeners. This tulip adds elegance and interest, and also translates well into cut flower arrangements.
Understanding Tulip Double Shake
Tulip Double Shake features distinct, multi-petaled blooms resembling peonies or magnolias. Initially, the flowers present a creamy white hue, which gracefully transitions to include subtle raspberry pink or magenta edging on the outer petals. As the bloom fully opens, it reveals a buttery yellow center often flecked with deeper pink tones, creating a dynamic color transformation. These flowers typically reach 14 to 22 inches tall, often maturing around 16 to 18 inches.
This double late variety blooms in late spring, generally from mid to late April. Its large, opulent flowers offer an extended bloom time. It also often carries a pleasant, perfume-like fragrance.
Planting Tulip Double Shake Bulbs
Plant Tulip Double Shake bulbs in mid to late autumn. This allows them to establish roots before winter, ensuring a vibrant spring display. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade. A sheltered position protects their large blooms from strong winds and heavy rains.
Well-draining soil is crucial to prevent bulb rot. Amend soil with organic matter like compost to improve drainage and provide nutrients.
Plant bulbs pointed end up, 6 to 8 inches deep (two to three times the bulb’s height). Space them 4 to 6 inches apart (twice their diameter) for air circulation and nutrient uptake.
Caring for Tulip Double Shake
Care involves mindful watering. After planting, thoroughly water bulbs to settle the soil and encourage root development.
During the first month, especially in dry conditions, weekly watering can be beneficial. Reduce frequency significantly after blooming, and stop watering when foliage yellows to prevent bulb rot during dormancy.
Fertilization supports vigor and reblooming. For established plants, apply a slow-release granular bulb fertilizer in late winter or early spring as new shoots emerge, and again in the fall.
Container-grown tulips often get sufficient nourishment from a nutrient-rich potting mix at planting, potentially eliminating additional fertilizer. After flowers fade, deadhead to prevent seed formation, directing energy back to the bulb.
Allow foliage to yellow and die back naturally (typically four to six weeks after flowering); this is crucial for the bulb to store energy for next season.
Addressing Common Issues
Common challenges include poor blooming, pests, and fungal diseases. Lack of flowers can result from inadequate sunlight, incorrect planting depth, or overcrowding, as bulbs compete for resources.
Pests such as aphids are a frequent concern, appearing as small insects that cluster on stems and leaves, sucking sap and causing discoloration or curled foliage. Slugs and snails can also damage young shoots, buds, and petals, often leaving behind tell-tale silvery trails. To manage these pests, a strong spray of water can dislodge aphids, while insecticidal soap or neem oil offers organic treatment options. Encouraging natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings, or creating barriers with copper tape or crushed eggshells, can also help deter pests.
Fungal diseases like Botrytis blight, also known as Tulip Fire, manifest as distorted leaves with brown lesions that can spread and cause the plant to rot. Bulb rot, typically caused by poor drainage, leads to soft, mushy bulbs with a strong odor. To prevent these issues, ensure excellent soil drainage and good air circulation around plants. If a plant is infected, promptly remove and discard it to prevent the spread of the disease, avoiding composting the affected material. It is advisable to avoid replanting tulips in the same infected soil for at least three years.
Winterizing for Reblooming
Prepare Tulip Double Shake for winter dormancy to encourage reblooming. In regions with suitable cold winters (USDA Zones 3-8), bulbs can typically remain in the ground during dormancy. The natural chilling period provided by cold temperatures is beneficial for next season’s bloom.
In warmer climates, particularly Zone 8 and above, the bulbs may require lifting and artificial chilling to ensure proper reblooming. After the foliage has completely died back, usually in early summer, carefully dig up the bulbs. Clean them of any soil and debris, then store them in a cool, dry, and dark location until replanting in the fall. For artificial chilling, bulbs can be refrigerated at temperatures between 40-45°F for 10-12 weeks before their autumn planting. While reblooming success can vary among tulip varieties, proper winter care significantly increases the likelihood of a vibrant return.