The Spathiphyllum Picasso, a variegated Peace Lily, offers a distinctive aesthetic for indoor plant enthusiasts. It is celebrated for its striking foliage, which presents an artistic blend of colors, making it a desirable and low-maintenance houseplant.
What Makes Spathiphyllum Picasso Unique
Spathiphyllum Picasso stands out with its remarkable variegation, featuring vibrant patterns of white, cream, and green on its leaves. These patterns often appear as abstract strokes or splashes, giving each leaf a distinct, painterly quality. Some leaves can even display large sections of pure white, offering a more ornamental feel than common Peace Lilies.
Its long, narrow leaves form a lush, clumping specimen, typically growing 12 to 20 inches tall, more compact than standard Peace Lilies. This variegated cultivar is rare and sought after by collectors.
Caring for Your Spathiphyllum Picasso
Light Requirements
Spathiphyllum Picasso thrives in bright, indirect light. An east or west-facing window is ideal, or a diffused south-facing window. Insufficient light can cause variegation to fade, turning white areas green. Too much direct sunlight can scorch leaves, leading to bleached or brown tips.
Watering Practices
Maintain consistent soil moisture for Spathiphyllum Picasso, avoiding overwatering to prevent root rot. The plant prefers moist, not soggy, soil. Water when the top inch or two feels dry. Drooping leaves signal thirst and typically perk up quickly after watering.
Soil and Potting
A well-draining, aerated potting mix is important for Spathiphyllum Picasso. A blend of peat or coco coir with perlite provides good drainage while retaining moisture. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and support healthy root development.
Temperature and Humidity
Spathiphyllum Picasso prefers warm, humid environments, with an ideal temperature range of 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Protect the plant from cold drafts, sudden temperature changes, and heat vents, as temperatures below 50°F (10°C) cause stress. Increase humidity by using a pebble tray, misting leaves, or a humidifier.
Fertilizing
During spring and summer, fertilize your Spathiphyllum Picasso monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can cause salt buildup and brown leaf tips. Pause fertilization during autumn and winter when growth slows.
Common Problems and Solutions
Browning Leaf Tips and Edges
Browning leaf tips and edges on a Spathiphyllum Picasso often indicate moisture issues. Low humidity is a common cause, as these tropical plants prefer a humid environment. Both underwatering and overwatering can also lead to brown tips. Mineral buildup from tap water (fluoride or chlorine) can contribute. Assess your watering, increase humidity, and consider filtered or distilled water.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves on a Peace Lily can result from overwatering, nutrient deficiencies, or natural aging. Overwatering leads to waterlogged soil, suffocating roots and causing yellowing. If soil is consistently wet, allow it to dry more between waterings and ensure good drainage. Too much or too little light can also cause yellowing.
Lack of Flowers
Spathiphyllum Picasso may not bloom without sufficient bright, indirect light. Young plants may not be mature enough to flower. Nutrient imbalances or inconsistent care can also deter blooming. Ensure optimal light and consistent care to encourage flowering.
Variegation Loss or Fading
Spathiphyllum Picasso’s variegation can fade or disappear, most commonly due to insufficient light. Without enough bright, indirect light, the plant may produce more green foliage to maximize photosynthesis, as white variegated parts contain less chlorophyll. Extreme temperatures can also contribute to variegation loss. Move the plant to a brighter location with filtered light to help restore its patterns.
Repotting and Propagating
When to Repot
Repot your Spathiphyllum Picasso when it shows signs of being root-bound, such as roots circling the pot or growing out of drainage holes. Stunted growth or difficulty maintaining soil moisture also indicate a need for a larger pot. Peace Lilies benefit from repotting every one to two years.
How to Repot
When repotting, select a new pot that is only slightly larger than the previous one, generally 1-2 inches wider in diameter, to prevent overwatering. Gently remove the plant from its current container, minimizing root disturbance. Place a layer of fresh, well-draining potting mix at the bottom of the new pot, center the plant, and then fill around the roots with more soil, ensuring no air pockets.
Propagation Methods
Spathiphyllum Picasso is primarily propagated through division, a method best performed during repotting. To divide the plant, carefully separate the rhizomes, ensuring each new section has a healthy cluster of leaves and a portion of the root system. Use clean, sharp tools to make cuts between natural separations in the root ball. These separated sections can then be planted individually in their own pots with fresh potting mix.