Dahlias are renowned for their vibrant, diverse blooms, making them a popular choice for gardens and floral arrangements. The ‘Selina’ dahlia stands out with its unique appearance and prolific flowering, bringing a splash of color and distinct form to any landscape.
Characteristics of Selina Dahlia
The ‘Selina’ dahlia is an upright, bushy, tuberous perennial. Its dark green, pinnate, and toothed foliage provides a rich backdrop for the large, double blooms. These striking reddish-pink or deep coral flowers, complemented by a silver reverse on the petals, create a dynamic visual effect as they curl or appear spiky. Blooms measure around 6.5 inches across, held on sturdy, upright stems that can reach approximately 50 inches in height. ‘Selina’ dahlias are prolific, producing abundant flowers from mid-summer (July) into autumn (October).
Planting and Growing Selina Dahlias
Successful cultivation of ‘Selina’ dahlias begins with careful attention to their environmental needs. They thrive in full sun, requiring at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, with morning sun particularly beneficial for drying dew and preventing fungal issues. Optimal growth occurs in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil with a pH range between 6.0 and 7.5. Amend heavy clay soil with compost or aged manure before planting to improve drainage and aeration.
Plant ‘Selina’ dahlia tubers after the last threat of frost has passed in spring, around the same time tomatoes are planted in your region. Place tubers horizontally 4 to 6 inches deep, with any visible “eyes” or growing points facing upwards. Space individual tubers 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for their mature size. Avoid watering immediately after planting unless your climate is very hot and dry, as too much moisture before shoots emerge can lead to rot.
Once established (8 to 12 inches tall or with first true leaves), ‘Selina’ dahlias require consistent deep watering. Provide 1 to 2 inches of water per week, including rainfall, ensuring it penetrates at least 8 to 10 inches deep into the soil. Water at the base of the plant to prevent foliage diseases. Allow the soil to almost dry out between waterings to prevent tuber rot, as dahlias are sensitive to overly wet conditions.
Fertilizing ‘Selina’ dahlias supports vigorous growth and abundant flowering. As heavy feeders, they benefit from a low-nitrogen fertilizer higher in potassium and phosphorus (e.g., 5-10-10 or 5-10-15). Apply fertilizer 30 days after planting, or once young shoots are visible. Fertilize every three to four weeks for in-ground plants and every two to three weeks for container plants, as nutrients leach faster from pots. Cease fertilization by late August to allow tubers to ripen for winter storage.
At around 50 inches tall, ‘Selina’ dahlias benefit from staking to prevent stems from breaking under the weight of their large blooms or strong winds. Install stakes during initial planting to avoid damaging developing tubers later. Use sturdy 6-foot wood, metal, or bamboo stakes, positioned 3 inches from the central stem and driven at least 12 inches deep. As the plant grows, loosely tie main stems to the stake, allowing some slack for natural movement and stem thickening.
Caring for Selina Dahlias Through the Season
Ongoing care ensures continuous ‘Selina’ dahlia blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading (removing spent flowers) encourages more blooms by diverting energy from seed production. To deadhead effectively, examine plants weekly (or every few days for continuous flowering) and identify faded blooms by their pointed, squishy feel, as opposed to round, firm new buds. Cut the spent flower stem back to the nearest set of leaves to promote new growth.
Pinching young ‘Selina’ dahlia plants promotes bushier growth and increases flower count. Pinch when the plant reaches 10 to 16 inches and has at least four sets of leaves on its central stalk. Snip the uppermost sprout on the main stem, just above the third or fourth set of leaves. This redirects the plant’s energy from a single main stem to lateral buds, stimulating multiple new branches and more flowers. While pinching may delay first blooms by a week or two, it results in a stronger, fuller plant with abundant flowers.
Managing common pests and diseases is routine dahlia care. Regular inspections aid early identification and prompt management. Aphids, small soft-bodied insects, cluster on new growth; control with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or ladybugs. Slugs and snails chew holes in leaves; deter them with barriers (copper tape, diatomaceous earth) or handpicking.
Spider mites, found in hot, dry weather, cause yellowing and stippling; manage by hosing plants or applying neem oil. Earwigs and thrips also affect dahlias; a tidy garden and consistent watering help deter them. Fungal issues like powdery mildew (white growth on leaves) are minimized by good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering. Tuber rot results from poor drainage or overwatering, highlighting the importance of proper soil conditions and careful watering.
Overwintering Selina Dahlia Tubers
In regions where winter temperatures consistently drop below freezing, ‘Selina’ dahlia tubers must be dug up and stored indoors. Dig tubers after the first hard frost, once the plant’s foliage has turned brown and died back. Allowing foliage to die back naturally ensures energy transfer to tubers for the following year. Cut dead foliage back to 5 to 6 inches from the ground before carefully digging up tuber clumps.
Once dug, gently wash any soil from the tubers, taking care not to puncture their skin, as damage can lead to rot during storage. After cleaning, air dry (cure) tubers for several days to two weeks in a cool, dark, dry location with good air circulation, away from direct sunlight and frost. Curing toughens their skin for storage.
For long-term storage, tubers need a cool, dark, slightly humid environment (40-50°F / 4-10°C). Store dried tubers in peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings within containers (e.g., milk crates, plastic bins, cardboard boxes). Prevent individual tubers from touching to minimize decay spread. Throughout the winter, periodically check stored tubers; mist shriveled ones to rehydrate, remove mushy ones, and increase ventilation.