Pothos plants, botanically known as Epipremnum aureum, are a popular choice for indoor gardeners. Their attractive trailing foliage and general ease of care make them suitable for both novice and experienced plant enthusiasts. Often referred to as “Devil’s Ivy” due to their resilient nature, these plants can thrive in various indoor environments, adding a touch of natural beauty to any space.
Pothos Care Essentials
Light Needs
Pothos plants flourish in bright, indirect light, such as near east or west-facing windows. While they tolerate lower light, growth may slow, and variegated varieties might lose patterns, reverting to solid green. Direct, intense afternoon sunlight can scorch leaves, leading to pale or bleached spots.
Watering Practices
Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Check the top two inches of soil; if dry, water. Slightly drooping leaves often signal thirst. Yellowing leaves or a foul smell indicate overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
Soil and Repotting
Pothos thrive in a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly acidic soil pH (6.1-6.8) is preferred. Repot every one to two years, or when roots appear through drainage holes or circle the pot. Choose a container only one to two inches larger to prevent excess moisture retention and overwatering. Spring or summer, during active growth, is the best time for repotting.
Temperature and Humidity
Pothos prefer consistent temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C-30°C). They do not tolerate cold drafts or temperatures below 50°F (10°C). While Pothos adapt to average household humidity, they thrive in higher humidity (40-60%). Placing the plant in a humid area like a bathroom or grouping with other plants creates a more favorable microclimate.
Fertilizing Schedule
Pothos benefit from regular fertilization during their active growing season (spring and summer). Apply a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 3-1-2 or 2-2-2 NPK) monthly or bi-weekly, diluted to half strength. Avoid fertilizing in fall and winter when growth slows. Stunted growth or pale foliage during the growing season may indicate a need for nutrients.
Propagating Pothos
Propagating Pothos is straightforward, allowing you to create new plants from existing ones. The most common methods use stem cuttings in water or soil. Select a healthy stem with at least three to four leaves and several nodes (where roots and leaves emerge). Make a clean cut about half an inch below a node using sharp, sterilized pruning shears.
For water propagation, remove submerged leaves and place the cutting in room-temperature water, ensuring at least one node is below the waterline. Change water weekly to keep it fresh and prevent bacterial growth. Roots typically form within one to two weeks; transplant to soil once they are two to three inches long.
For soil propagation, optionally dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Plant the cutting directly into a small pot with well-draining potting mix, burying the nodes and keeping leaves above the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged) and place the pot in bright, indirect light. Roots generally establish in several weeks; then reduce watering frequency.
Troubleshooting Common Pothos Problems
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can signal several issues. Overwatering, with excessively wet soil, deprives roots of oxygen, leading to root rot and yellowing, often with wilting. Underwatering also causes yellowing, often with a crispy texture. Nutrient deficiencies (especially nitrogen) or excess fertilizer (causing salt buildup) may also result in yellowing. Sudden light changes or repotting stress can also temporarily cause yellowing.
Brown Leaf Tips
Brown leaf tips often indicate insufficient moisture from underwatering or low humidity. Consistently dry soil prevents adequate hydration, leading to crispy, brown tips. Low humidity, especially indoors or in winter, can also dry out leaf edges. Over-fertilization can cause fertilizer burn, where excess salts accumulate and damage root tips, manifesting as brown leaf margins or tips.
Leggy Stems
Leggy stems, stretched with sparse foliage, typically signal insufficient light. The plant elongates stems to reach more light, resulting in a leggy appearance. Moving the plant to brighter, indirect light promotes more compact, fuller growth. Pruning leggy stems back to a node encourages branching, creating a bushier plant. These pruned sections can be used for propagation.
Drooping Foliage
Drooping foliage indicates watering issues. Underwatering causes leaves to go limp and sag, signaling thirst. Overwatering leads to drooping, as waterlogged soil damages roots and prevents effective water absorption. Other factors include insufficient light, which weakens the plant, or sudden temperature fluctuations, as Pothos prefer warm, consistent environments.
Pothos and Pet Safety
Pothos plants contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, making them toxic if ingested by pets and humans. Chewing any part of the plant (leaves or stems) releases these crystals, causing immediate irritation. Symptoms in pets include oral pain, burning sensation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. While severe cases like kidney failure are rare, they can occur, especially in older or ailing animals. Pet owners should keep Pothos plants out of reach of curious animals to prevent accidental ingestion.