The ‘Pink Giraffe’ Dahlia offers a distinctive presence in any garden with its unique aesthetic. This award-winning variety showcases pale pink and white petals that sweep back and roll inward, revealing their darker pink undersides. Its blooms, described as “orchid style” or resembling “a painter’s brush strokes,” create a sculptural form. Growing to about 24 inches (60 cm) tall, the ‘Pink Giraffe’ Dahlia is a sought-after choice for borders, containers, or as cut flowers due to its excellent vase life.
Planting Pink Giraffe Dahlias
Plant Pink Giraffe Dahlia tubers after the last frost, once the soil has warmed sufficiently. Dahlias thrive in full sun, ideally receiving at least half a day of direct sunlight; however, in hot summer regions, some light afternoon shade can be beneficial. The soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter, with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.5-7.0). Amending heavy clay soils with compost, aged manure, or peat moss improves drainage and aeration, preventing tuber rot.
Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches to allow for root expansion. Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep, wide enough to accommodate the tuber. Place the tuber horizontally with any visible “eyes” or growth points facing upwards. Backfill the hole with a few inches of soil, covering the tuber completely. Do not water immediately after planting unless the soil is exceptionally dry, as too much moisture can lead to rot.
Ongoing Care for Pink Giraffe Dahlias
Consistent watering is important for Pink Giraffe Dahlias once established, especially as they grow larger and during dry periods. Deep watering two to three times per week is sufficient, ensuring water penetrates 8 to 10 inches into the soil to reach the roots. Dahlias in containers require more frequent watering, sometimes daily, because nutrients wash through the soil quicker. Watering at the base of the plant in the morning helps keep foliage dry, reducing fungal issues.
Fertilization supports abundant blooms. A low-nitrogen fertilizer, known as a bloom food, is recommended for established dahlias. Fertilizers with a higher percentage of phosphorus and potassium, such as a 5-10-10 ratio, promote flowering rather than excessive leafy growth. Apply fertilizer every three to four weeks throughout the growing season; container-grown dahlias benefit from feeding every two to three weeks.
Due to their height, Pink Giraffe Dahlias require staking or other support systems to prevent stems from bending or breaking, especially once they reach about 18 inches tall. Deadheading, the removal of spent blooms, encourages the plant to produce more flowers instead of setting seed. To deadhead, cut the spent flower stem back to a main stem or a leaf node where new buds can form. Regular pruning also improves air circulation, minimizing disease risk.
Overwintering Pink Giraffe Dahlia Tubers
In regions with cold winters (USDA Hardiness Zones 3-7), Pink Giraffe Dahlia tubers need to be lifted and stored indoors to protect them from freezing. The process begins after the first hard frost, which signals dormancy and causes foliage to die back. After digging, remove excess soil from the tubers. Allow tubers to dry and cure in a well-ventilated area for a few days; this helps the skin harden and reduces rot during storage.
Once dry, brush off any remaining soil and inspect tubers for damage or disease, removing any soft or rotting sections. Store tubers in a cool, dark, dry location where temperatures remain consistently between 40-50°F (4-10°C). Maintaining 80-90% relative humidity also prevents shriveling. Tubers can be stored in materials like vermiculite, dry sand, or wood shavings in breathable containers such as cardboard boxes or plastic bins with ventilation holes. Periodically check for signs of decay or shriveling.
Troubleshooting Pink Giraffe Dahlia Problems
Gardeners may encounter issues when growing Pink Giraffe Dahlias. If plants exhibit yellowing leaves, causes include improper watering (too much or too little), nutrient deficiencies, or pest infestations. Overwatering can lead to root rot, causing leaves to become droopy and soft, while underwatering results in limp, dry leaves. Nutrient imbalances, particularly a lack of nitrogen, magnesium, or iron, can cause yellowing, sometimes with green veins visible.
Common pests affecting dahlias include aphids, slugs, earwigs, and spider mites. Aphids, small sap-sucking insects, cluster on new growth and cause yellowing and distorted leaves. Spider mites, found on the undersides of leaves, cause stippling and discoloration, especially in hot, dry conditions. Slugs and snails create irregular holes in leaves, while earwigs chew on blooms. Organic controls like neem oil or insecticidal soap manage aphid and spider mite infestations, while traps or baits address slugs and earwigs.
Dahlias are susceptible to fungal issues like powdery mildew, appearing as white spots on leaves and stems favored by dry conditions, and botrytis (gray mold). Botrytis causes gray-brown spots and fuzzy mold, especially after extended rainy periods. Ensuring good air circulation through proper plant spacing and watering at the base rather than overhead prevents these fungal problems. Removing affected plant parts promptly and maintaining garden hygiene are also key to disease management. Viral diseases can cause stunted growth, distorted leaves, and unusual yellowing patterns; infected plants should be removed to prevent spread.