The ‘Orange Turmoil’ Dahlia adds vibrant color to outdoor spaces. Its distinctive blooms and robust growth make it a popular variety. This dahlia offers an extended flowering season, providing visual interest from mid-summer until the first frost. It serves as a focal point in flower beds and borders, and is also suitable for container planting.
Orange Turmoil Dahlia Characteristics
The ‘Orange Turmoil’ Dahlia features bold, fiery blooms. Classified as a cactus or semi-cactus dahlia, its fully double flowers have spiky, pointed petals, often delicately quilled. The vivid orange coloration frequently includes hints of pale pink, apricot, or yellow at the petal tips, creating an iridescent effect. Blooms can reach 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter, and the plant grows to about 39-40 inches (100 cm) tall with a 20-inch (50 cm) spread. These dahlias bloom from mid-summer through late fall, providing continuous color until the first hard frost.
Cultivating Orange Turmoil Dahlias
Site Selection and Soil
Dahlias thrive in locations with ample sunlight, requiring at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily for abundant blooms. While full sun is preferred, partial shade is tolerated in hotter climates to prevent leaf scorch. The ideal soil is well-draining, fertile, and rich in organic matter; good drainage is paramount as tubers are susceptible to rot. These plants adapt to various soil types and pH levels. Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting improves fertility and drainage.
Planting Tubers
‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlia tubers should be planted outdoors in spring after the last frost and when the soil has warmed. Place tubers 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) deep with the “eye” or growing point facing upwards; adjust depth if the tuber has sprouted. Space tubers 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart for adequate air circulation and nutrient availability. After planting, water sparingly; overwatering before shoots emerge can lead to tuber rot. Consistent watering can begin once sprouts appear.
Watering Needs
Consistent moisture is important for ‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlias throughout their active growing season. Once established, dahlias require deep watering two to three times a week, ensuring water penetrates eight or more inches deep to reach the tuber’s root system. Avoid waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. Conversely, prolonged dry soil can stress the plant and hinder blooming. Container-grown dahlias may need more frequent watering, sometimes daily, due to faster moisture evaporation.
Fertilizing
‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlias are heavy feeders and benefit from regular fertilization to support continuous blooming. Use a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium, as excessive nitrogen promotes foliage growth over flowers. A balanced fertilizer can be used early, switching to a low-nitrogen formula (e.g., 5-10-10 or 5-10-15) as plants mature. Fertilize every three to four weeks throughout the growing season, starting when plants have several sets of leaves (typically 3-4 inches tall).
Staking and Support
Given their height, ‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlias require staking to prevent tall stems and large blooms from falling over, especially in wind or heavy rain. Install stakes at planting to avoid damaging tubers later. Sturdy wooden or metal stakes placed next to the tuber provide effective support as the plant grows. Stems can be gently tied to the stake. For multiple plants, the “corral method” using T-posts and twine can support an entire bed.
Deadheading
Regular deadheading, the removal of spent blooms, is important for ‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlias. This encourages more flowers throughout the growing season, extending the display. Cut spent flowers back to a leaf or side shoot. Deadheading also maintains the plant’s tidy appearance and prevents the spread of fungal diseases that can start on decaying flowers.
Winterizing and Storing Tubers
In climates where the ground freezes (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlia tubers must be dug up for winter storage. Begin after the first hard frost blackens foliage, signaling dormancy; allowing tubers to remain in the ground for one to two weeks after frost can toughen skins, improving storage viability. To dig, cut stalks back to a few inches above the soil line. Carefully loosen soil around the tuber clump with a garden fork, starting at least a foot from the main stem to avoid damage. Gently lift the clump, brush off excess soil, and remove damaged or diseased tubers.
After digging, cure tubers by drying them in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for several days to a few weeks; this helps prevent rot. Once cured, store tubers in a medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings in breathable containers (e.g., cardboard boxes or crates). The ideal storage temperature is 40-50°F (4-10°C) with 75-90% humidity. Periodically check tubers throughout winter for signs of rot or shriveling.
Managing Pests and Diseases
‘Orange Turmoil’ dahlias can encounter pests and diseases. Common pests include aphids, slugs, snails, spider mites, and thrips. Aphids cluster on new growth, causing stunted development. Slugs and snails leave irregular holes, especially in damp conditions. Spider mites cause stippling and discoloration, while thrips can deform flowers and transmit viruses.
Organic strategies are effective for management. For aphids, apply insecticidal soaps or neem oil, or introduce natural predators like ladybugs. Barriers like copper tape or diatomaceous earth can deter slugs and snails, along with hand-picking. Good air circulation and proper plant spacing help prevent fungal diseases like powdery mildew and botrytis blight. Removing infected plant parts, maintaining garden hygiene, and consistent plant health through proper watering and fertilization improve a dahlia’s natural resistance.