The Orange Pekoe Dahlia captivates gardeners with its warm hues, bringing a vibrant display to any landscape. Its striking appearance makes it a desirable addition for enhancing garden visual interest. This guide covers cultivating this dahlia, from planting to winter preparation.
Understanding Orange Pekoe Dahlia
The Orange Pekoe Dahlia is distinguished by its glowing colors, transitioning from apricot to burnished orange, often with subtle yellow streaks. Its formal decorative blooms are symmetrical, flat, or slightly incurved, measuring 4 to 4.5 inches in diameter. The plant forms a bushy, clump-forming habit with dark gray to sea-green serrated leaves. Reaching 3.5 to 4 feet tall, it suits the middle or back of a sunny border and is valued as a cut flower with good vase life.
Planting Orange Pekoe Dahlias
Orange Pekoe Dahlias require a suitable site. They thrive in locations with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily, ideally morning sun. Protection from strong winds is also beneficial, especially for taller varieties. The soil should be well-draining, rich in organic matter, and have a neutral to slightly acidic pH (6.0-7.0).
Prepare the soil by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of high-quality compost or well-rotted manure, along with bone meal. Plant tubers after the last frost, when soil temperature consistently reaches 60°F (15°C). Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep and place the tuber horizontally with the “eye” facing upwards. Space tubers 18 to 24 inches apart for adequate growth and air circulation. After planting, avoid watering immediately; wait until green sprouts emerge from the soil, as early watering can lead to rot.
Ongoing Care for Orange Pekoe Dahlias
Consistent watering is important for Orange Pekoe Dahlias once established. Provide deep waterings two to three times per week, especially during dry periods. Water at the base of the plant to prevent fungal issues. Fertilization should begin about 30 days after planting, using a low-nitrogen fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium to encourage blooms. Apply fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks for in-ground plants, or every 2 to 3 weeks for container-grown dahlias.
Pinching the central growing stalk when the plant reaches about 1 foot tall encourages bushier growth and more blooms. Removing spent flowers, known as deadheading, consistently promotes continuous blooming. Taller plants benefit from staking to support their stems and heavy blooms, preventing them from bending or breaking.
Common pests like aphids, spider mites, slugs, and earwigs can affect dahlias; regular inspection and appropriate organic insecticidal sprays or baits can help manage these issues. Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease, appearing as a white coating on leaves, which can be mitigated by ensuring good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering.
Winterizing Orange Pekoe Dahlias
In regions with freezing temperatures, Orange Pekoe Dahlia tubers need to be lifted and stored for winter. After the first hard frost blackens the foliage, cut stems to 4 to 6 inches above ground. Carefully dig up the tubers, being mindful not to damage them, and gently rinse off excess soil. Allow them to air dry for several days to a few weeks in a warm, dry spot with good air circulation; this process is known as curing.
Once cured, store the tubers in a cool, dark, frost-free location between 40°F and 50°F (4°C and 10°C) with moderate humidity. Storage options include cardboard boxes, plastic bins, or mesh bags. Use materials like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings to separate the tubers and maintain humidity.
Periodically check the stored tubers throughout winter, removing any that show signs of rot or shriveling. In very mild climates (USDA zones 8 and above), tubers may remain in the ground if heavily mulched for insulation.