Dahlias bring captivating beauty to any garden, and the ‘Nonette’ variety stands out with its unique charm and vibrant display. Its stunning blooms make it a favored choice for many gardeners. This guide provides insights into cultivating ‘Nonette’ dahlias, ensuring they flourish and provide abundant flowers.
Meet Nonette Dahlia
The ‘Nonette’ dahlia is celebrated for its distinctive waterlily-form blooms, typically 4 to 6 inches across. These elegant flowers showcase a blend of apricot or pale orange petals, intricately speckled and streaked with burgundy or red. Each bloom is unique, with some occasionally reverting to solid red. The rich dark green foliage provides a lush backdrop for the vibrant blossoms.
‘Nonette’ plants generally reach 3 to 5 feet tall. Despite a sometimes short and squat growth habit, they are stunning in the garden. Their bloom season extends from summer into fall, providing continuous color and making them a popular choice for cut flower arrangements due to their vibrant hues and unique patterns.
Planting Nonette Dahlia
Successful ‘Nonette’ dahlia cultivation begins with proper site selection and soil preparation. Dahlias thrive in full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours daily). In hot climates, afternoon shade can prevent scorching. Protection from strong winds is also beneficial to prevent plant damage.
Dahlias prefer light, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Amend heavy clay with organic materials like compost or plant in raised beds to improve drainage. Plant tubers after all frost danger has passed in spring, when soil temperature reaches 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Dig a 6 to 12-inch deep hole. Lay the tuber horizontally, “eye” or sprout pointing up, about 6 inches below ground. Cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil initially, adding more as shoots grow. Space tubers 18 to 24 inches apart for air circulation. Do not water immediately after planting unless soil is very dry, as excess moisture before sprouts can cause rot.
Caring for Nonette Dahlia
Consistent care ensures robust, floriferous ‘Nonette’ dahlias. Once established, deep water 2-3 times per week, ensuring moisture penetrates 8-10 inches, especially during dry or hot weather. Avoid frequent, shallow watering and wetting foliage, which can encourage disease.
Fertilization supports vigorous growth and abundant blooming. Use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10 or 10-20-20) to promote flowers over leafy growth. Apply lightly every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, from when plants are 6 inches tall until early fall. Always water thoroughly before and after fertilizing to prevent root burn and aid absorption.
Staking is often necessary for ‘Nonette’ dahlias (3 to 5 feet tall) to support heavy blooms and prevent stem breakage. Install a sturdy 3-7 foot stake at planting time. As the plant grows, tie stems loosely to the stake every 12 to 18 inches with soft twine. Regularly deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowers throughout the season, extending the vibrant display.
Common Challenges for Nonette Dahlia
Even with proper care, ‘Nonette’ dahlias can face challenges from pests and diseases. Slugs and snails are problematic for young shoots and can be managed with bait. Other common pests include earwigs, spider mites, and aphids. Regularly monitor plants for infestations and address them promptly to prevent widespread damage.
Environmental factors also impact performance. Insufficient sunlight leads to leggy growth and reduced blooming, so ensure plants receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sun. Poor drainage, often from heavy soil or overwatering, causes tuber rot.
Diseases like powdery mildew (white coating on leaves) and botrytis blight (brown spots, gray mold) can occur, especially in humid conditions or with poor air circulation. Proper spacing, avoiding overhead watering, and ensuring adequate air flow are essential preventative measures. Promptly remove affected plant parts to control fungal spread.
Winter Care for Nonette Dahlia
In colder climates (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Nonette’ dahlia tubers are not winter-hardy and must be lifted and stored indoors to prevent rot from freezing temperatures.
Lift tubers after the first hard frost kills back foliage (stems turn yellow/brown), allowing the plant to send energy back to the tubers. Cut stems to 4-6 inches above ground. Carefully dig around tubers, starting a foot from the main stem, to avoid damage. Gently shake off excess dirt; avoid washing unless soil is heavy clay.
Air dry tubers for a few hours to several days in a cool, dry, non-freezing location away from direct sunlight. Once dry, store them in a cool, dark, dry place with good air circulation (e.g., unheated basement or root cellar). Ideal storage is 40-45°F (4-7°C) with 80-90% humidity.
Pack in peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings in cardboard boxes or plastic bins, ensuring air circulation and no tuber contact. Check periodically, removing soft/rotting tubers and adjusting humidity. In mild climates (Zone 8-10), tubers can remain in well-drained, mulched ground.