The Mimi Iris, a Tall Bearded Iris cultivar introduced in 1983 by Howard Shockey, offers gardeners a beautiful display with its distinctive blooms. Known for its sweet fragrance and appealing flower form, it brings vibrant color and classic elegance to garden spaces.
Understanding Mimi Iris
Formally identified as ‘Mimi’ (Howard Shockey, R. 1982), this Tall Bearded Iris cultivar reaches about 36 inches (91 cm) tall. Its flowers feature ruffled, laced pink petals with a distinct white central area on the falls and a prominent cerise beard. Blooming in midseason, it offers fresh color and a sweet fragrance.
Growing Mimi Iris
Mimi Iris thrives with ample sunlight, ideally at least six hours of direct sun daily for optimal growth and flowering. While full sun is preferred, some varieties can bloom in half-day shade. Sufficient light prevents excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers.
Well-drained soil is essential for Mimi Iris, as it is intolerant of consistently wet conditions. A slightly acidic to neutral garden soil (pH 6.1-8.5) is suitable. Incorporating organic matter like compost improves drainage in clay soils. For poor drainage, raised beds provide necessary aeration for rhizomes.
Watering needs vary by growth stage. Established plants are drought tolerant but benefit from moderate, consistent moisture during active growth and blooming. Allow the topsoil to dry between waterings to prevent rhizome rot. Overwatering is more detrimental than underwatering, so monitor soil moisture carefully.
Mimi Iris is a light feeder. Over-fertilization, especially with high-nitrogen formulas, encourages foliage growth over blooms and increases rot susceptibility. A low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10 or 6-10-10) is recommended. Apply in early spring as new growth emerges, before buds form, and again after blooming to support future flowering. Apply around the plant, not directly on rhizomes, to prevent burning.
Planting and Ongoing Care
Plant Mimi Iris in late summer to early fall, allowing rhizomes to establish before colder weather. Position rhizomes near the soil surface, with tops at or slightly below ground level. Space them 8 to 10 inches apart for proper air circulation and growth.
Divide Mimi Iris clumps every three to four years to maintain vigor and consistent blooming. Perform this in late summer after flowering. Carefully lift the clump, separate younger, healthy rhizomes from older ones, and discard unhealthy sections. Replant healthy divisions in a prepared bed with adequate spacing.
Deadheading, the removal of spent blooms, prevents Mimi Iris from expending energy on seed formation, diverting resources from flower production. Snip or pinch off individual faded flowers behind the flowerhead. Once all blooms on a stem are gone, cut the entire stem back to an inch or two above the rhizome.
Winter care involves preparing Mimi Iris for dormancy. In early fall, if foliage diseases are present, cut leaves back to 6-8 inches from the ground. For newly planted irises, a light mulch layer can prevent frost heaving. Leave healthy green foliage on established plants after blooming, as leaves gather energy for rhizomes throughout the season.
Addressing Common Challenges
Mimi Iris can encounter common pests, primarily iris borers. These caterpillars tunnel into leaves and rhizomes, causing damage that can lead to bacterial soft rot. Signs include notched wounds or slimy leaf areas, and soft, foul-smelling rhizomes. Remove and destroy infested plant parts and practice good garden sanitation. Other pests like aphids, slugs, and snails can be managed with insecticidal soaps or by encouraging natural predators.
Fungal and bacterial diseases can affect Mimi Iris. Bacterial soft rot, identified by a foul odor, causes decay in rhizomes and leaf bases, often entering through borer wounds. Leaf spot, a fungal disease, appears as brown spots that can shrivel leaves. Rust, another fungal issue, manifests as brown spots on leaves. Preventative measures include good air circulation through proper spacing, avoiding overhead watering, and removing infected plant material.
A lack of blooms can stem from several factors:
Insufficient sunlight: Irises need at least six hours of direct sun daily to flower well.
Overcrowding: Congested rhizome clumps reduce bloom production, necessitating division every few years.
Deep planting: Rhizomes prefer to be near the soil surface; planting too deeply hinders flowering.
Nutrient imbalances: Too much nitrogen and insufficient phosphorus can lead to lush foliage but few flowers.
Ensuring proper light, spacing, planting depth, and a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer regimen encourages abundant blooms.