Unique Characteristics of Mary Evelyn Dahlia
The ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlia is a distinctive and sought-after collarette type, instantly recognizable by its unique flower form and striking coloration. Its blooms feature a single outer row of flat, deep velvety red petals, complemented by an inner ring of shorter, often ruffled, white florets that surround a prominent golden-yellow central disk. Individual flowers measure 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 centimeters) across. The plant grows 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 centimeters) tall, with serrated, dark green leaves. ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlias bloom continuously from midsummer, usually beginning in July, until the first hard frost, making them popular for garden beds and cut flower arrangements.
Growing and Caring for Mary Evelyn Dahlia
Successful cultivation of the ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlia requires specific conditions. These plants thrive in full sun, needing six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil should be fertile, rich in organic matter, and have excellent drainage to prevent waterlogging and tuber rot. An optimal soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.0.
Planting
Plant ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlia tubers in spring after frost danger passes and soil temperature reaches 60°F (16°C). Dig a hole wider than the tuber clump, placing the tuber 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 centimeters) deep with “eyes” pointing upwards. Initially, cover with 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 centimeters) of soil. Space tubers 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 centimeters) apart for mature plant size and good air circulation.
Watering
Water sparingly after planting until green shoots emerge (1-3 weeks). Once established, plants need consistent moisture, especially during dry periods, with deep watering two to three times per week. Always water at the base of the plant early in the day to allow leaves to dry, preventing fungal issues. Overwatering can lead to root rot.
Fertilization
Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen fertilizer, as excessive nitrogen promotes leafy growth over flowers. Apply a balanced liquid feed every 10 to 15 days. Shift to phosphate-potassium rich formulas once flower buds begin to form. Cease fertilization once buds show color to prevent lush foliage overshadowing blooms.
Support and Maintenance
As ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlias can reach 3 to 4 feet tall, staking is important to prevent stems from bending or breaking, especially in windy conditions. Install sturdy stakes at planting or when plants are 3 feet tall, gently tying stems as they grow. Pinch the central growing stem when the plant is 12 to 16 inches (30 to 40 centimeters) tall to encourage branching and more blooms. Regularly deadhead spent blooms by cutting the stem back to a leaf or pair of leaves. This promotes continuous flowering by directing energy to new flowers instead of seed production.
Overwintering Mary Evelyn Dahlia Tubers
In cold regions (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlia tubers are not hardy and require lifting for indoor storage. The ideal time to dig tubers is after the first hard frost, which causes foliage to turn dark brown. Allowing tubers to remain in the ground for one to two weeks after this frost can help their skin toughen for storage, but dig immediately if a deep freeze is predicted.
Lifting and Preparing Tubers
To prepare tubers, cut main stalks back to 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 centimeters) above ground. Carefully loosen soil around the clump with a pitchfork, avoiding damage. Gently brush off excess soil; washing tubers is not recommended as it increases mold risk. Inspect each clump for disease or damage, discarding questionable tubers to prevent spread.
Storing Tubers
After cleaning, cure tubers for several weeks in a cool, dry location with good air circulation, away from direct sunlight. Store cured tubers in a cool, dark, frost-free environment (40-50°F / 5-10°C). Use cardboard boxes, paper bags, or crates, packing tubers in an absorbent medium like peat moss, vermiculite, sand, or wood shavings to regulate moisture and prevent shriveling. Periodically check stored tubers for rot or excessive shriveling, adjusting humidity or discarding affected tubers as needed.
Common Dahlia Problems and Solutions
Even with careful attention, ‘Mary Evelyn’ dahlias can encounter common garden challenges from pests and diseases.
Pests
Early in the season, young dahlia shoots are vulnerable to slugs and snails, which can damage tender foliage. Manage them by keeping soil dry, handpicking, or using organic slug repellents. Later, aphids, thrips, and spider mites may appear. Control these soft-bodied insects with insecticidal soaps or neem oil; regular misting can deter spider mites. Earwigs are nocturnal pests that chew holes in petals and leaves; traps made from upturned pots with straw or damp newspaper can be effective.
Diseases
Dahlias are also susceptible to certain diseases, often linked to environmental conditions. Powdery mildew, a white film on leaves, thrives in dry conditions with low light and high humidity. Prevent it with good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and cleaning plant debris. If present, treat with fungicides or homemade solutions like baking soda sprays.
Botrytis blight (gray mold) appears as brown, rotting spots and fuzzy gray spores, particularly in wet, cloudy weather. Proper plant spacing and debris removal are preventative measures. Viral diseases, spread by sucking insects, cause leaf distortion and mottling; there is no cure, and infected plants should be removed to prevent further spread. Sterilizing gardening tools between plants with a 10% bleach solution helps prevent transmission.