Dahlia ‘Mango Madness’ offers a vibrant spectacle, transforming any garden space with its fiery, tropical colors. This popular dahlia variety captivates gardeners with its stunning blooms, which evoke the warm hues of a sunset.
Understanding Mango Madness Dahlia
Dahlia ‘Mango Madness’ is a “Dinnerplate” dahlia, known for its large blooms, often 9 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) in diameter. These flowers display a blend of mango orange, coral, and pink, sometimes with hints of yellow or a smoky gray reverse. The petals radiate symmetrically, creating a full and rounded appearance, with a smooth, slightly waxy texture. Growing 40 to 60 inches (100 to 150 cm) tall, ‘Mango Madness’ serves as a focal point in garden beds. It blooms profusely from mid-summer until the first frost, providing continuous color, and its sturdy stems are favored for cut flower arrangements.
Planting Mango Madness Dahlia
Successful cultivation of ‘Mango Madness’ dahlias begins with careful site selection and proper soil preparation. These plants thrive in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil should be well-drained and rich in organic matter, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Loosen the soil to 12 inches (30 cm) and incorporate compost or an all-purpose granular fertilizer before planting.
Plant tubers in spring, after the last frost and when soil temperature reaches about 60°F (15°C). Dig a 4 to 6-inch deep hole, placing the tuber with the “eye” facing upwards. Cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil, gently firming it down. Water thoroughly after planting, then withhold water until new growth emerges to prevent tuber rot. Space tubers 12 to 18 inches apart for proper air circulation.
Caring for Mango Madness Dahlia
Consistent watering is important, especially during dry spells, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged. Allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings, with deep watering once or twice a week. Fertilize about 30 days after planting using a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10), applying monthly until late summer. Avoid high-nitrogen products, which promote leafy growth over flowers.
Providing Support
These tall dahlias require physical support to prevent stems from breaking. Use individual hardwood stakes, 6 feet tall and driven 12 inches deep about 3 inches from the main stem. Tie stems loosely to the stake every 12 inches as the plant grows. Alternatively, a “corralling” method using posts and twine can support a group of plants.
Pinching and Deadheading
Pinch the plant when it reaches 8 to 18 inches tall and has three to four sets of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more abundant blooms by promoting lateral branching. Remove the central stem’s apical bud just above a set of leaves. Deadhead spent flowers for continuous blooming, trimming them just above where the flower stem meets a leaf.
Common Challenges and Solutions
‘Mango Madness’ dahlias can encounter common issues. Pests like aphids and spider mites can be managed by hosing them off, applying insecticidal soap, or using neem oil. Slugs and snails can be deterred with organic controls or physical removal.
Fungal diseases include powdery mildew, appearing as white spots on leaves in warm, humid conditions. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove affected leaves. Gray mold (Botrytis) presents as fuzzy gray mold on flowers and leaves in cool, wet conditions; promptly remove infected parts and enhance air circulation. Yellowing leaves often indicate environmental stress from overwatering or underwatering. Proper watering practices prevent these symptoms.
Winter Care and Storage
For gardeners in colder climates, lifting and storing ‘Mango Madness’ dahlia tubers is necessary. After the first frost kills the foliage, leave tubers in the ground for one to two weeks to cure, which toughens their skin for storage. Before a hard freeze, cut stems back to 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) above ground. Carefully dig around the tubers, about a foot away from the main stem, using a garden fork to avoid damage. Lift the clump, shake off excess soil, and rinse if the soil is heavy clay.
After digging, cure tubers in a cool, dry, dark location with good air circulation for a few hours to several days. Avoid direct sunlight and concrete surfaces. Tubers are cured when their skin appears slightly wrinkled.
For long-term storage, place cured tubers in a container like a cardboard box or plastic bin. Store in a cool, dark, frost-free environment, ideally 40-45°F (4-7°C) with 80-90% humidity. Layer tubers in peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust, ensuring they do not touch to prevent rot. Periodically inspect stored tubers, removing any showing signs of rot or mold, and adjusting humidity if they shrivel.