The ‘Lilac Time’ dahlia is a popular garden choice, known for its beauty, abundant blooms, and prolonged color display. Adaptable and striking, it enhances garden beds and serves as an excellent cut flower.
Distinctive Characteristics of ‘Lilac Time’ Dahlia
The ‘Lilac Time’ dahlia features large, fully double blooms, typically 6 to 8 inches in diameter, sometimes reaching 10 inches, classifying it as a decorative or dinnerplate dahlia. Its petals display a soft lilac or violet-purple hue, often with subtle blue undertones. Growing 36 to 48 inches tall, this cultivar has a bushy, upright habit, providing a lush green backdrop for its striking flowers. It blooms consistently from mid-summer until the first frost, providing an extended season of color.
Planting ‘Lilac Time’ Dahlia
Plant ‘Lilac Time’ dahlia tubers after the last spring frost, when soil temperatures consistently reach 60°F or higher, often aligning with tomato planting in your region.
Choose a site that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, as ample light is necessary for vigorous growth and abundant flowering. In very hot climates, protection from intense afternoon heat can prevent scorching.
Ensure the planting area has well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and aeration, loosening the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches.
Dig a hole approximately 4 to 6 inches deep, placing the tuber horizontally with any visible “eyes” or sprouts facing upwards. Cover the tuber with 2 to 3 inches of soil, adding more as the plant grows.
Space tubers 12 to 18 inches apart for optimal air circulation and growth; ‘Lilac Time’ may benefit from wider spacing of 24 to 30 inches. Avoid watering immediately after planting; instead, wait until green sprouts emerge, as early watering can lead to tuber rot.
Caring for ‘Lilac Time’ Dahlia
Consistent care maintains the health and prolific blooming of ‘Lilac Time’ dahlias.
Once sprouts appear, provide deep watering two to three times a week, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged. During prolonged dry spells or periods of high heat, increase watering frequency to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Hydration is important given their large flower size and vigorous growth.
Fertilize regularly with a low-nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formula (e.g., 5-10-10 or 10-20-20). Begin monthly fertilization from mid-summer until early autumn, or every two to four weeks, to support continuous blooming and strong stem development. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers and may weaken tubers.
Due to their height and large blooms, ‘Lilac Time’ dahlias often require staking. Install sturdy stakes (e.g., bamboo canes or metal rods) at planting time to avoid tuber damage. As the plant grows, use soft ties to secure stems loosely to the stakes, adjusting as needed for ongoing support.
Regularly deadhead spent flowers by snipping them just above a healthy leaf or bud; this encourages new blooms and extends the flowering period. Regularly inspect plants for common pests like aphids, slugs, or spider mites, addressing any issues promptly to maintain plant vigor.
Overwintering ‘Lilac Time’ Dahlia Tubers
In climates with freezing winters (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Lilac Time’ dahlia tubers must be lifted and stored indoors.
Wait until after the first hard frost has blackened the foliage, as this signals dormancy and toughens their skin for storage. Allow tubers to remain in the ground for 10 to 14 days after this frost, but lift them before the ground freezes solid.
Carefully dig up tuber clumps, avoiding damage, and gently brush off excess soil. Avoid immediate washing; instead, wash gently and allow to dry thoroughly. Allow tubers to cure in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight for several weeks until the skin feels firm and dry.
Store cured tubers in a cool, dark place (40-50°F) using peat moss or vermiculite in cardboard boxes, paper bags, or crates for air circulation. In warmer climates (USDA Zones 8-11), tubers can often be left in the ground with a protective layer of mulch, provided the soil is well-draining.