The ‘Irene Copeland’ daffodil is a cherished, distinctive variety known for its opulent, multi-layered blooms. Its visual charm and relatively undemanding nature make it a popular choice for gardeners. This article details its features and care requirements for a rewarding spring display.
Distinctive Features
The ‘Irene Copeland’ daffodil is a double daffodil, classified under Division 4 of the horticultural groups for Narcissus. Its flowers, up to 10 cm (4 inches) in diameter, have a multi-layered appearance, sometimes compared to chrysanthemums or dahlias. Petals are creamy white, interspersed with pale primrose yellow, creating a bicolor effect.
These blooms grow on stems 40-45 cm (16-18 inches) tall. The heavy flowers may cause stems to tilt. Its ruffled, layered petals are a key visual feature. Slightly grey-green, strap-shaped foliage provides a backdrop for the bright flowers.
Planting and Cultivation
‘Irene Copeland’ daffodils thrive in full sun to partial shade. Full sun is optimal in northern regions, while afternoon shade benefits warmer climates. A site protected from strong winds is advantageous, as heavy blooms can make stems prone to bending.
Soil should be well-draining and moderately fertile, with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Amend clay soils with organic matter to improve drainage, or plant bulbs in raised beds. Avoid sandy soils due to poor heat retention, which can lead to bulb freezing in winter. Prepare the planting area in summer by digging and incorporating compost or humus, but avoid fresh manure.
Plant ‘Irene Copeland’ bulbs in mid-fall, allowing 1.5 months before the first hard frost for root establishment. Plant bulbs with narrow ends upwards, 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) deep, which is two to three times their height. Space bulbs about 15 cm (6 inches) apart, or closer for a clustered display. After planting, moisten the soil thoroughly and add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Keep soil consistently moist through fall for root development, and water during dry periods through winter and spring until flowering concludes. After blooms fade, reduce watering, especially in warmer climates, to allow soil to dry during summer dormancy and prevent disease. Fertilize lightly in spring and fall with a slow-release granular fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 blend), scratching about a tablespoon per bulb into the soil surface. Deadhead spent blooms to divert energy to the bulb. Allow foliage to yellow and die back naturally, as leaves photosynthesize and provide essential nutrients for the bulb’s vigor and next year’s bloom.
Daffodils may encounter issues like slugs or the large narcissus bulb fly. Fungal infections such as gray rot, fusarium, and penicillous rot can occur, particularly with poor drainage or excessive moisture. Pre-treating bulbs with a fungicide before planting helps mitigate these risks. Viral diseases, though less common, are a concern; remove infected plants to prevent spread, as there is no effective treatment. Proper cultivation, including good air circulation and healthy bulbs, reduces problems.
Bloom Cycle and Longevity
‘Irene Copeland’ daffodils bloom in mid-spring, typically from late April through mid-May. As perennials, they reliably return each year.
With appropriate care, they naturalize, spreading to form larger clumps. They can thrive in the same location for three to five years without division. When overcrowding occurs, indicated by decreased bloom production, divide bulbs after foliage yellows. This makes ‘Irene Copeland’ suitable for perennial borders, rock gardens, or as cut flowers.