The ‘Happy Single Kiss’ dahlia is a delightful addition to any garden. Its cheerful display makes it a favored choice for gardeners. Its charming presence can enhance garden beds, borders, or containers.
Meet Your ‘Happy Single Kiss’ Dahlia
The ‘Happy Single Kiss’ dahlia features distinctive single-petal blooms, typically 4 inches wide. Flowers display peachy-pink hues with a contrasting dark center, sometimes with a raspberry pink halo. Dark olive-green to bronze foliage provides a striking backdrop, making blossoms stand out.
This compact, bushy variety reaches 18 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. Its smaller stature means it typically does not require staking. Blooming mid-summer until first frost, they attract bees and other pollinators due to their open flower structure. Dahlia plants are mildly toxic to pets, potentially causing mild gastrointestinal upset or skin irritation if ingested.
Getting Started: Planting Your Dahlia
For successful growth, ‘Happy Single Kiss’ dahlias need the right location. They thrive in full sun, needing six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for abundant blooms. A sheltered spot can also protect them from strong winds.
Well-draining soil prevents tuber rot. Ideal soil is rich, loamy, fertile, and slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.5-7.0). Incorporating compost or well-rotted manure improves soil structure and fertility.
Plant tubers after the last frost, when soil temperature exceeds 60°F. In colder climates, tubers can be started indoors in pots four to six weeks before the last expected frost.
Dig a 4 to 6-inch deep hole, placing the tuber horizontally with the “eye” facing upwards. Space tubers 12 to 18 inches apart for air circulation and growth. Do not water immediately after planting to prevent tuber rot; allow roots to establish in existing soil moisture.
Ongoing Care for Thriving Blooms
Consistent moisture is important for dahlias. They require regular, deep watering, especially during dry periods, aiming for 1 inch per week. It is best to water deeply two to three times a week rather than frequent shallow watering, ensuring moisture reaches the roots without waterlogging the soil.
Fertilizing supports vigorous growth and abundant flowering. Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) with higher phosphorus and potassium. Apply fertilizer every three to four weeks for ground plants, or every two to three weeks for container-grown dahlias, starting 30 days after planting.
Pinching young plants encourages bushier growth and more blooms. When the plant is 8 to 16 inches tall with at least four sets of leaves, remove the topmost sprout to encourage lateral branching. This practice can temporarily delay flowering by a week or two but leads to a stronger plant with more flowers.
Regular deadheading is important for continuous blooming. This prevents the plant from expending energy on seed production, directing it towards new flowers. To deadhead, cut the faded flower stem back to a point where new growth or a leaf node is emerging. While generally compact, ‘Happy Single Kiss’ dahlias may need staking if taller or in windy locations. Common pests include slugs, aphids, and spider mites; powdery mildew is a disease concern. Good air circulation and regular inspection help manage these.
Winter Dormancy and Tuber Storage
In cold winter regions (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Happy Single Kiss’ dahlia tubers are not winter-hardy; lift and store them indoors to protect from freezing. Dig up tubers after the first hard frost kills the foliage, usually when leaves turn dark brown and mushy. Leaving tubers in the ground for one to two weeks after the first frost can toughen them for storage.
To lift, carefully dig about a foot out from the central stem with a garden fork, avoiding tuber damage. Gently shake off excess soil. Tubers can be rinsed or left with some soil.
After lifting, dry tubers for several days in a cool, dark, protected area, ideally upside down to drain hollow stems. Once dry, store tubers in a cool, dark, dry environment (40-50°F / 4-10°C).
Use peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust in breathable containers (cardboard boxes, paper bags, slatted crates) to prevent shriveling and ensure air circulation. Regular checks throughout winter monitor for mold, rot, or excessive drying. Replant these stored tubers the following spring after frost danger has passed.