The ‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlia is a highly sought-after variety, known for its striking appearance and vibrant blooms that enhance garden landscapes. It is a favored choice among gardeners seeking a visually captivating addition to their outdoor spaces.
Distinctive Features of Dutch Explosion Dahlia
The ‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlia showcases fully double flowers, typically measuring 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) wide. These eye-catching blooms feature crisp white petals delicately tipped with purple or magenta, creating a vibrant and glowing combination. The elongated, velvety petals are described as semi-cactus, rolled for more than two-thirds of their length, giving them a spiky appearance. This variety stands out due to its striking color contrast and unique petal form.
The plant can reach an established height of 32 to 40 inches (80-100 cm), making it suitable for borders or as a cut flower. Its robust stems are not top-heavy, allowing the large blooms to remain upright even after rain. Blooming profusely from July until the first frost, ‘Dutch Explosion’ offers a continuous display of color throughout the summer and autumn months.
Planting Your Dutch Explosion Dahlia
‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlias thrive in full sun, requiring 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily; light shade can be beneficial in hotter climates. A sheltered location is recommended to protect plants from strong winds. The soil should be fertile, humus-rich, and well-draining, as compacted soil can lead to water accumulation and root rot. Amending the soil with organic matter like garden compost before planting helps create an ideal environment.
Plant tubers in early spring, after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 60°F (15°C). Tubers should be planted 4-6 inches deep, ensuring the crown faces upwards and roots point downwards. Space tubers 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart to allow for adequate growth and air circulation. After planting, water if the soil is dry, but wait until green sprouts emerge before regular watering to prevent rot.
Ongoing Cultivation for Optimal Blooms
‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlias require consistent moisture throughout the growing season, especially during dry periods. Once shoots emerge, deep watering once to three times per week is generally sufficient, though container plants may require daily watering. Avoid wetting the foliage directly to prevent disease.
About 30 days after planting, begin applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer, often referred to as a bloom food, with higher percentages of phosphorus and potassium (e.g., 5-10-10 or similar NPK ratios). This can be repeated every 3-4 weeks for in-ground plants and every 2-3 weeks for container-grown dahlias, as nutrients leach faster from pots. Cow or steer manure can also be incorporated into the soil for enrichment.
Due to their mature height, ‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlias often benefit from staking or other forms of support to prevent stems from bending or breaking, especially when laden with large blooms. Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers, encourages the plant to produce more blooms throughout the season. Regular removal of faded flowers redirects the plant’s energy from seed production to developing new buds.
While ‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlias are generally noted for good pest and disease resistance, common issues can include slugs, aphids, earwigs, and powdery mildew. Good air circulation, achieved by proper spacing and pruning dead leaves, helps deter fungal diseases. For slugs and snails, keeping the area around the plant free of debris and dry, especially at night, can be effective; barriers like eggshells or copper wire may be used. Aphids can be managed by picking them off or spraying with soapy water, and companion planting with marigolds can attract beneficial predatory insects.
Overwintering Dutch Explosion Dahlia
In regions experiencing freezing temperatures (USDA Hardiness Zones 3-7), ‘Dutch Explosion’ dahlia tubers must be lifted and stored indoors for winter. This process typically occurs after the first hard frost, when the plant’s foliage has begun to turn brown and die back. Carefully dig up the tuber clumps, being mindful not to damage them.
After digging, clean the tubers by gently removing excess soil. Allow them to dry and cure for a few days in a cool, dry location with good air circulation and indirect sunlight. This curing process helps to harden the skin and prevent rot during storage.
Once cured, store the tubers in a cool, dark, and frost-free environment. The ideal storage temperature ranges between 40-45°F (4-7°C), with a humidity level of 75-85%. Tubers can be placed in boxes, plastic bins, or paper bags, often layered with a storage medium such as peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings to maintain moisture and prevent shriveling. Check on the stored tubers monthly, removing any that show signs of rot to prevent spread. Replant the tubers in the spring after the danger of frost has passed.