‘Dahlia Toto’ is a dahlia variety known for its vibrant blooms and manageable size. This perennial adds color to garden beds and containers from summer through autumn. It is also popular as a cut flower. ‘Dahlia Toto’ is a geophyte, growing from an underground tuber.
What Makes Dahlia Toto Unique
‘Dahlia Toto’ features distinctive anemone-flowered blooms. Each flower has an outer ring of creamy white, elliptic petals. These encircle a dense central group of quilled, pincushion-like yellow florets, creating a striking contrast. The prolific 3-inch flowers continuously open from mid-summer until the first frost. This compact variety reaches about 16 inches (40 cm) tall, and its open blooms attract pollinators like bees and butterflies.
Planting Your Dahlia Toto
Planting ‘Dahlia Toto’ requires a suitable location and soil preparation. These dahlias thrive in full sun, needing at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil should be well-drained and rich in nutrients, as soggy conditions can lead to tuber rot. Amending the soil with compost, by digging down 8 to 12 inches, improves drainage and provides organic matter.
Plant tubers in spring after all danger of frost has passed and soil temperature reaches at least 60°F (15°C). Plant tubers 4 to 6 inches deep, with the “eye” or sprout facing upwards. Space individual tubers approximately 18 inches (45 cm) apart. After planting, water sparingly until green sprouts emerge, as excessive moisture can cause tubers to rot before they establish roots.
Ongoing Care for Dahlia Toto
Once established, ‘Dahlia Toto’ requires consistent watering. While initial watering should be minimal, provide 1 to 2 inches of water weekly once sprouts appear. During hot or dry periods, biweekly watering may be necessary to prevent the soil from drying out. Deep watering is preferable, ensuring moisture reaches the root zone.
Fertilization supports growth and abundant blooms. Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen fertilizer, with higher percentages of phosphorus and potassium, such as a 5-10-10 ratio. Begin fertilizing about 30 days after planting, repeating every three to four weeks for in-ground plants or every two to three weeks for container-grown dahlias. Applying a high-potash fertilizer towards the end of the growing season helps tubers plump up for winter storage.
Regular deadheading encourages continuous flowering. Removing spent blooms prevents the plant from expending energy on seed production, redirecting it to new flower growth. Snip faded flowers just above a set of healthy leaves or buds using sharp, clean pruners. Due to their short stature, ‘Dahlia Toto’ usually doesn’t need extensive staking, but support can prevent stems from bending or breaking in windy conditions or with heavy blooms. A small stake inserted at planting or as the plant grows offers sufficient support; tie stems gently.
Common Pests and Diseases
‘Dahlia Toto’ can encounter pests like aphids, slugs, and spider mites. Aphids are small, sap-sucking insects that cause distorted growth and may transmit viruses. Spider mites, identified by fine webbing and yellow spots on leaves, thrive in hot, dry conditions and cause foliage browning. Slugs and snails chew on tender new shoots and leaves, especially in moist environments. Regular inspection helps early detection, and managing these pests involves horticultural soaps, strong water sprays, or physical removal.
Dahlias are susceptible to diseases like powdery mildew and tuber rot. Powdery mildew appears as a white coating on leaves and stems, favored by humidity and poor air circulation. Ensuring good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering helps prevent its spread. Tuber rot, caused by overly wet or poorly drained soil, manifests as soft, decaying tubers and wilting foliage. Proper soil preparation and careful watering are the main preventative measures against rot.
Preparing Dahlia Toto for Winter
In colder climates (USDA Zones 2-7), ‘Dahlia Toto’ tubers must be lifted and stored indoors for winter. Begin this process after the first hard frost blackens the foliage. Waiting one to two weeks after the frost allows tubers to cure and toughen their skins for storage. Carefully dig around the plant to avoid damaging tubers, then gently lift the clump from the soil.
After digging, remove excess soil from the tubers. Some wash tubers gently to prevent rot, while others leave dirt on. Allow tubers to dry completely in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for several days to a week. This curing process helps seal the skin and prevents fungal issues.
Once dry, store tubers in a cool, dark, frost-free location. Ideal storage temperatures range between 40-50°F (4-10°C) with around 70-85% humidity. Tubers can be packed in peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings in cardboard boxes, paper bags, or crates. Regularly check stored tubers throughout winter for signs of rot or shriveling.