Dahlia ‘Pink Runner’ displays vibrant hot pink blooms that transition to coral pink as the season progresses. Gardeners value this dahlia for its strong stems and prolific flowering, making it a favored choice for borders and cut flower arrangements. Its energetic growth ensures continuous blooms throughout summer and fall.
The Unique Runner Growth Habit
The designation “runner” in Dahlia ‘Pink Runner’ refers to its vigorous growth and remarkable productivity, rather than a spreading rhizomatous root system typically associated with plants like mint. Unlike some plants that send out extensive underground stems, ‘Pink Runner’ develops as a bushy, herbaceous plant that expands in size through its robust top growth and an increase in its tuber clump. This characteristic means the plant focuses its energy on developing strong, tall stems that reach approximately 4 to 5 feet in height, supporting numerous 4 to 6-inch formal decorative blooms. The ability to produce many tubers also contributes to its “runner” name, as it readily multiplies its underground storage organs, which can then be divided for more plants.
Planting Your Dahlia Pink Runner
Plant Dahlia ‘Pink Runner’ tubers after the last spring frost, when soil warms to at least 15°C (60°F). This timing aligns well with when tomatoes and peppers are typically planted in your region. A site receiving full sun for at least six to eight hours daily is ideal for optimal bloom production.
The soil should be well-draining, rich in organic matter, and have a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Prepare the planting area by loosening the soil to a depth of 12 inches and incorporating compost or well-rotted manure, along with an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Plant the tubers 3 to 6 inches deep, positioning them horizontally with the “eye” or sprout facing upwards. Due to its vigorous growth, space individual tubers 12 to 18 inches apart to allow ample room for development and air circulation. After planting, water the tubers once, then refrain from further watering until the first green shoots emerge, which helps prevent tuber rot.
Ongoing Care and Cultivation
Consistent watering is important for Dahlia ‘Pink Runner’ once plants are established and actively growing, typically when they reach 8 to 12 inches tall. Aim to provide about an inch of water per week, deep soaking the soil two to three times weekly, especially during dry or hot periods. Watering at the plant’s base or using soaker hoses helps keep foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Fertilization should begin approximately 30 days after planting, using a low-nitrogen fertilizer or “bloom food” every three to four weeks throughout the growing season. Look for a fertilizer where the nitrogen component (the first number in the N-P-K ratio) is about half the phosphorus and potassium numbers, such as 2-4-4 or 5-10-10.
Pinching the main stem when the plant is about 12 inches tall encourages lateral branching, leading to more flowers and a bushier plant. As ‘Pink Runner’ can grow quite tall, providing support like staking is highly recommended to prevent stems from breaking under the weight of their blooms or from wind. Regularly removing spent blooms, a process known as deadheading, is also beneficial. Snip off faded flowers at the stem’s base, just above a healthy leaf or side shoot, to redirect the plant’s energy into producing new flowers rather than seeds, ensuring continuous blooming until the first frost.
For pest management, organic solutions such as insecticidal soaps or neem oil can address soft-bodied pests like aphids and spider mites. Handpicking larger pests like slugs and snails, or using barriers and traps, can also be effective.
Winter Dormancy and Tuber Storage
In regions with freezing winter temperatures, Dahlia ‘Pink Runner’ tubers are not winter-hardy and require lifting and storing indoors. The optimal time to lift tubers is after the first hard frost has caused the plant’s foliage to blacken and die back. Before digging, cut the stems back to about 2 to 6 inches above the soil line. Carefully dig around the tuber clump using a pitchfork, starting about a foot away from the main stem to avoid damage. Gently lift the entire clump from the soil and remove excess dirt.
After cleaning, cure the tubers by allowing them to dry in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area for several days to a few weeks, which helps prevent rot during storage. Store the cured tubers in a cool, dark, and frost-free location, ideally between 40-50°F (4-10°C), with a humidity level of 80-90%. Materials like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings can be used to pack the tubers in cardboard boxes or paper bags, ensuring good air circulation and preventing them from touching. Periodically check the stored tubers throughout winter for any signs of rot or desiccation.