Dahlia ‘Moon Lady’ is a captivating garden plant known for its distinctive blooms. Its formal decorative flowers, 4 to 6 inches across, display bright lemon-yellow shades, sometimes with creamy yellow to pale peach hues and subtle pink hints. Growing 24 to 48 inches tall with an 18 to 24-inch spread, ‘Moon Lady’ makes a striking focal point in gardens or containers. It blooms consistently from mid-summer until the first autumn frost.
Planting Dahlia ‘Moon Lady’
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Proper site selection is important for ‘Moon Lady’ dahlias. These plants thrive in full sun, requiring at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily for healthy growth and abundant flowering. While they can tolerate partial shade, insufficient sunlight can lead to leggy plants with fewer blooms. Dahlias prefer rich, well-draining soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. For heavy clay soil, amend it with organic matter like aged manure or compost to improve drainage and aeration.
Planting Tubers
Plant ‘Moon Lady’ dahlia tubers after all frost danger has passed and soil temperature reaches at least 60°F (15°C). A good indicator is planting when tomatoes are typically planted in your region.
Dig a 4 to 6-inch deep hole. Place the tuber horizontally with the ‘eye’ facing upward. Cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil initially, adding more as the plant grows and sprouts emerge.
Avoid watering immediately after planting to prevent rot; wait until green sprouts appear above the soil surface. Space tubers 12 to 18 inches apart for adequate airflow and to prevent pest or fungal issues.
Caring for ‘Moon Lady’ Dahlias
Watering
‘Moon Lady’ dahlias require consistent moisture throughout their growing season, especially during dry periods. These plants benefit from regular watering, similar to tomatoes. Aim to provide a thorough soak once a week if natural rainfall is insufficient, delivering about 1 to 2 inches of water. Avoid overwatering, as prolonged soggy conditions can lead to tuber rot. During periods of extreme heat, biweekly watering may be necessary.
Fertilizing
Dahlias benefit from a balanced fertilization program throughout their growth. After planting, wait approximately 30 days before the first fertilizer application.
A low-nitrogen fertilizer, often called “bloom food,” is recommended once plants establish and begin to grow. This typically means a fertilizer where the first number (nitrogen) in the NPK ratio is half of the other two numbers, such as a 5-10-10.
Apply fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks during the growing season for in-ground plants. For container-grown dahlias, more frequent fertilization, every 2 to 3 weeks, may be necessary as nutrients leach faster from potted soil.
Staking and Support
‘Moon Lady’ dahlias require support due to their size and heavy blooms, especially in windy conditions. Install stakes or support systems at planting to avoid damaging tubers later. For individual plants, a sturdy 5 to 6-foot stake placed 3 inches from the tuber works well. As the plant grows, tie main stems to the stake every 12 to 18 inches with soft twine, allowing slack. For multiple plants, the “corral method” uses stakes every 3 to 4 feet along rows with layered twine for support.
Deadheading and Pinching
Regular deadheading, removing spent blooms, encourages ‘Moon Lady’ dahlias to produce more flowers and extends their blooming period. This redirects energy from seed production to new blooms. To deadhead, cut the flower stem just above the first set of leaves. Pinching, removing the central growing tip of young plants, promotes bushier growth and more lateral branching. This practice, done when the plant has three to four sets of true leaves, can lead to more blooms, though they may be slightly smaller.
Pest and Disease Management
Dahlias can attract various pests and diseases.
Spider mites: Indicated by yellowing leaves and webbing; deterred by consistent watering and misting.
Slugs and snails: Problematic for young shoots; manage by keeping soil surface dry or using organic repellents.
Earwigs: Chew on leaves and buds; reduce by keeping the garden tidy.
Aphids: Suck plant sap; dislodge with water or treat with insecticidal soaps.
Powdery mildew, a common fungal disease, appears as white spots on leaves. It is encouraged by humidity and poor air circulation. Improve air circulation by spacing plants appropriately and avoiding overhead watering to prevent its spread.
Overwintering ‘Moon Lady’ Dahlias
Preparing for Winter
In regions with freezing winter temperatures (USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and below), ‘Moon Lady’ dahlia tubers must be dug up and stored indoors to prevent freezing and rot. Begin after the first hard frost, which signals dormancy and causes foliage to wilt and blacken. Leave tubers in the ground for one to two weeks after this frost to toughen their skin and improve storage viability. Before digging, label each plant with its variety name for proper identification during storage.
Digging and Curing Tubers
Once foliage blackens from frost, cut stems back to 4 to 6 inches above ground. Carefully dig around the tuber clump, starting about a foot from the stem, using a garden fork to avoid damaging the delicate tubers.
Gently lift the clump from the soil and brush off any excess dirt. Some gardeners wash the tubers, while others leave the soil on; both methods can be successful.
After digging, allow tubers to dry and cure in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight for several days to two weeks. This curing prevents mold growth and prepares tubers for long-term storage.
Storing Tubers
Store ‘Moon Lady’ dahlia tubers in a cool, dark, slightly humid environment, maintaining temperatures between 40°F and 50°F (4°C and 10°C). Temperatures outside this range risk freezing or premature sprouting/rot.
Humidity levels around 70-90% prevent shriveling or excessive moisture. Store tubers in breathable containers like cardboard boxes, paper bags, or plastic bins with good air circulation.
Layering with peat moss, vermiculite, or dry sand helps maintain humidity and prevents rot spread. Check tubers monthly, removing any showing signs of rot or shriveling.