Dahlia ‘Karma Amora’ is a popular choice for its vibrant blooms and suitability as a cut flower. This variety offers striking visual appeal, enhancing garden beds, borders, or containers for both novice and experienced gardeners.
Understanding Dahlia ‘Karma Amora’
Dahlia ‘Karma Amora’ features exquisite waterlily-shaped, fully double blooms, typically 4 to 5.5 inches (10-14 cm) across. They showcase a rich, vibrant scarlet to burgundy red hue. The blooms grow on robust, dark-colored stems that reach 36 to 48 inches (90-120 cm), providing excellent vertical interest.
Part of the ‘Karma’ series, this dahlia was developed for the cut-flower market due to its strong stems and long vase life, often lasting 7 to 12 days. Its upright habit and vigorous growth provide continuous blooms from mid-summer until the first frost, usually July to October. The open form of these waterlily dahlias also attracts pollinators like bees and butterflies.
Planting ‘Karma Amora’ Tubers
Plant ‘Karma Amora’ tubers after all danger of frost has passed, when soil temperature reaches 60°F (15°C). This is comparable to when tomatoes are planted outdoors. Tubers can be started indoors four to six weeks before the last frost for an early start, though direct outdoor planting is common.
For healthy growth, select a site with full sun, requiring at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Prepare the soil by digging down 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) and amending heavy clay soils with compost, aged manure, or peat moss to improve drainage and aeration.
Dig a hole 2 to 6 inches (5-15 cm) deep, placing the tuber horizontally with the “eye” or growing point facing upwards. Space tubers 24 inches (60 cm) apart for mature growth and air circulation. Cover with 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of soil. Avoid watering immediately after planting to prevent tuber rot; wait until sprouts emerge, typically 3 to 5 weeks later.
Cultivating Thriving ‘Karma Amora’
Water consistently once ‘Karma Amora’ sprouts emerge. Deep watering 2 to 3 times per week is recommended, ensuring moisture reaches 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep, with increased frequency during hot, dry periods. Avoid overwatering, which causes tuber rot, but also prevent prolonged dry spells.
For optimal bloom production, ‘Karma Amora’ benefits from a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 15-15-15 or 20-20-20) applied once per year. Some growers prefer a low-nitrogen fertilizer to encourage blooms over leafy growth. Tall varieties require staking or support to prevent stems from breaking under abundant blooms; supports are ideally placed at planting time.
Pest and disease management involves proactive measures. Common dahlia pests include aphids, slugs, snails, earwigs, and spider mites, which can be managed with various methods like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or physical barriers. Powdery mildew is a common fungal issue preventable by ensuring good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and removing affected leaves. Regular inspection and prompt action help maintain plant health.
Enjoying and Harvesting ‘Karma Amora’ Blooms
Harvesting ‘Karma Amora’ blooms correctly enhances their enjoyment, both in the garden and indoors. For longest vase life, cut dahlia flowers in early morning or late evening when well-hydrated. Unlike many cut flowers, dahlia buds won’t open significantly after cutting. Harvest them when almost fully open and the flower head is firm.
Make long cuts, at least 18 inches (45 cm), just above a leaf node to encourage more blooms. Immediately strip any leaves below the waterline to prevent bacterial growth, and place stems into cool water, ideally with flower food. Placing stems into very warm water (160-180°F or 71-82°C) for at least an hour can condition them, extending vase life. Regular deadheading of spent blooms encourages continuous flowering.
Winter Care for ‘Karma Amora’ Tubers
In colder climates (USDA Zones 3-8), ‘Karma Amora’ tubers are not winter hardy and must be lifted from the ground before the first hard frost. The ideal time to dig is after the first frost has blackened the foliage, signaling the plant to prepare for dormancy. Allow the tubers to remain in the ground for about one to two weeks after the foliage dies back; this helps the tubers cure and toughen their skins for storage.
Begin the lifting process by carefully digging around the plant, about a foot (30 cm) away from the central stalk, to avoid damaging the tubers. Gently loosen the soil and lift the entire clump. After lifting, carefully remove excess soil from the tubers. Some gardeners wash the tubers with a gentle hose or in a tub of water, taking care not to puncture their skin.
Allow the cleaned tubers to dry and cure for a few days in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors if conditions permit. Once dry, store them in a cool, dark, and frost-free location, ideally between 40-50°F (4-10°C) with moderate humidity (80-90%). Tubers can be stored in materials like dry peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings in boxes, paper bags, or crates, ensuring they do not touch each other to prevent rot. Check on the stored tubers monthly, removing any that show signs of rot or shriveling.