The ‘Ocean Lily’ is a captivating aquatic plant, specifically a beautiful cultivar of water lily, Nymphaea ‘Ocean Lily’. These water lilies are a popular choice for enhancing ponds and water features due to their striking appearance. Understanding the specific needs of this unique cultivar helps ensure its successful growth and vibrant blooms. This guide provides detailed insights into cultivating and caring for the Ocean Lily, allowing it to flourish in various aquatic environments.
Understanding the Ocean Lily Flower
The Nymphaea ‘Ocean Lily’ cultivar features cup-shaped flowers in shades of blue, purple, or white. These flowers often display a spiral arrangement of petals, creating a full and elegant bloom. They are typically held at or just above the water’s surface on long stalks, emerging from rhizomes rooted in the mud below.
The ‘Ocean Lily’ has thick, waxy, circular leaves that float on the water, often featuring a distinct V-shaped notch where the stem attaches. Leaf colors vary from deep green to mottled or flecked with maroon or bronze. This cultivar generally blooms from late spring through fall, with each flower lasting three to five days.
Cultivating Ocean Lily Flowers
Ocean Lilies require abundant sunlight, ideally at least six hours of direct sun daily, for prolific flowering. They thrive in calm, still water, so place them away from turbulent areas like fountains or pumps. Regular fertilization with aquatic plant-specific tablets is necessary for robust growth and continuous blooming, especially in containers. Insert these tablets into the soil near the plant’s roots, typically once a month during the growing season, avoiding direct contact to prevent burning.
As a tropical water lily, ‘Ocean Lily’ prefers water temperatures above 70°F (21°C). In regions with freezing temperatures, overwintering is required. This involves ceasing fertilization in late summer to allow tuber formation, then storing tubers in water in a cool, dark place indoors, or moving the entire potted plant to a heated indoor environment above 65°F (18°C). For maintenance, regularly remove spent blooms and any yellowing or decaying leaves to keep the plant healthy and encourage new growth.
Planting and Placement
Plant water lilies in aquatic baskets, designed with mesh sides to contain soil while allowing water circulation. Use a heavy soil, such as pure clay or a clay-loam mixture, as lighter potting mixes can float and cloud the water. Line the basket with hessian or newspaper to prevent soil escape.
Position the water lily’s rhizome at a slight angle against the pot’s side, with the growing tip pointing upwards and towards the center. The top of the rhizome should be just at or slightly above the soil surface. After planting, add a layer of pea gravel or small river rocks to the soil surface to hold it in place and deter fish.
Submerge the container slowly, allowing trapped air to escape. Begin by placing the pot so the crown is covered with 6-10 inches (15-25 cm) of water, often on bricks. As the plant grows and its leaves lengthen, gradually lower the container to its final depth of 18-30 inches (45-75 cm) for medium to large varieties.
Common Challenges and Solutions
While ‘Ocean Lily’ flowers are generally robust, common issues can arise. A lack of blooms often indicates insufficient sunlight or inadequate fertilization. Ensure the plant receives at least six hours of direct sun and consistently apply aquatic plant fertilizer tabs to stimulate flowering.
Algae growth is a frequent problem, typically caused by excess nutrients and ample sunlight. Introduce more aquatic plants, especially floating varieties, to provide shade and absorb excess nutrients, competing with algae. Reducing fish food, enhancing filtration, and improving aeration also aid in algae control.
Pests like water lily aphids, water lily beetles, and China mark moths can affect foliage. Aphids, small black or green insects on leaves, can be dislodged by hosing them off or submerging affected leaves. For leaf-mining midges or China mark moth larvae, which create wavy lines or cutouts, manually remove affected leaves or use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).
Yellowing leaves can signal nutrient deficiency or natural aging; remove them to maintain plant health. Overcrowding, indicated by reduced vigor or fewer blooms, suggests the plant may need division every 4-6 years.