Popcorn Aloe (Aloe camperi) is a captivating succulent, valued for its unique visual interest and straightforward care, appealing to all growers.
Unique Characteristics
Aloe camperi forms rosettes, growing up to 2 feet high and wide. Its long, strap-like leaves are verdant green, often with white flecks or striations on the undersides. Sunlight can bring out pinkish-red hues. Leaf edges have soft, toothy margins.
Branched flower stalks rise about 1.5 feet. Flowers are less tubular and puffier, in soft apricot, salmon, or yellow. Unlike many winter-blooming aloes, Aloe camperi flowers later, into late spring or early summer.
Essential Growing Conditions
Light
Aloe camperi thrives in full sun to partial shade. Full sun encourages compact growth and reddish leaves. It tolerates some shade in hot climates; too little light causes leggy growth and dull foliage. In intense desert heat, afternoon shade prevents scorching.
Soil
Good drainage is essential. Aloe camperi prefers gritty, lean, rocky, well-draining soil. A succulent mix is ideal. For containers, amend potting soil with perlite, coarse sand, or pumice for drainage.
Water
Use the “soak and dry” method, allowing soil to dry completely. Water more in warmer months; less in cooler periods. Overwatering causes root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Aloe camperi is adaptable, tolerating 28°F (-2°C) when established. It thrives between 55-80°F (13-27°C). It prefers dry, low-humidity. While heat tolerant, extreme full sun in hot deserts may require afternoon shade.
Ongoing Care and Maintenance
Fertilization
Aloe camperi is not a heavy feeder and thrives in poor soils. If fertilizing, apply a light, balanced succulent fertilizer during the active growing season (spring or early summer). Follow dilution rates carefully; over-fertilization can harm the plant. Many find fertilization unnecessary, particularly with regular repotting into fresh soil.
Pruning
Pruning is minimal, for appearance and health. Remove dead, damaged, or yellowing leaves, often at the base of rosettes. Trim spent flower stalks after blooms fade. Use clean, sharp shears to prevent damage and disease.
Propagation Methods
Aloe camperi readily produces offsets, known as “pups,” miniature plants at the mother plant’s base. This is the easiest method. Identify pups at least 3-4 inches tall with their own root system. Carefully separate them from the mother plant with a clean, sharp knife or shears, ensuring roots remain.
Allow the pup’s cut end to callus for 1-2 days in a dry, shaded area to prevent rot. Plant the callused offset in a well-draining succulent mix. Water sparingly after potting, allowing soil to dry. Place the pup in bright, indirect light until established.
Common Problems and Solutions
Root rot, caused by overwatering, is frequent. Symptoms include yellowing or soft, mushy leaves, often starting at the base. Unpot, remove rotting roots, air dry healthy roots for a few days, then repot in fresh, well-draining soil. Adjusting watering to allow soil to fully dry prevents recurrence.
Yellowing leaves indicate underwatering or insufficient light. Thin, shriveled leaves suggest underwatering; dull or flat leaves indicate inadequate light. Mealybugs and scale insects occasionally infest. These small, white or brown insects are found on leaves and stems. Remove them by wiping with rubbing alcohol or spraying with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Lack of flowering or distorted blooms may stem from insufficient light, improper watering, or immaturity. Optimal light and care encourage blooming. Crooked or frilly flower stalks may indicate gall mites, requiring specific treatment.