Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’ (Aeonium urbicum ‘Lily Pad’) is a distinctive and appealing succulent, captivating with its unique rosette form. Its thick, fleshy leaves are arranged in a flat, open pattern, often resembling a water lily or lotus, which gives it its common name. Originating from the Canary Islands, this hybrid makes a striking ornamental addition to various garden settings. Its vibrant green foliage can display a subtle pinkish hue when exposed to ample sunlight.
Essential Growing Conditions
Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’ thrives during its active growth period, typically from fall through spring. Bright, direct sunlight is essential for compact growth and enhanced coloration. While it tolerates full sun in cooler seasons, intense, hot sun can cause scorching or yellow-orange discoloration on its edges. Insufficient light leads to etiolation, causing the plant to stretch and become spindly, losing its compact shape.
The “soak and dry” method is crucial for watering. Water thoroughly until excess drains, then allow the soil to dry completely before the next watering. Overwatering often leads to root rot, especially given its shallow root system. Avoid getting water directly into the rosettes, as trapped moisture can also lead to rot.
Well-draining soil is essential for preventing root issues. A specialized succulent or cactus mix, or a gritty blend with coarse sand, pumice, or perlite, ensures adequate drainage. While most succulents prefer extremely gritty mixes, Aeoniums benefit from some moisture, so a sandy loam or regular potting mix can also be suitable.
Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’ prefers warmer temperatures, ideally between 60-75°F (15.6-23.9°C) during active growth. Hardy in USDA Zones 9a-11b (down to 20°F/-6.7°C), it requires protection from freezing. In cold winter regions, container growing allows for easy indoor relocation.
Fertilization needs are minimal. During active growth (fall to spring), a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer can be applied monthly. Over-fertilizing can harm the plant, leading to spindly growth and increased pest or disease susceptibility.
The Dormancy Cycle
Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’ enters dormancy during hot summer months, typically from late spring through summer. This adapts to its native Mediterranean climate, where active growth occurs in cooler, damp winter and spring. During dormancy, rosettes may close, and growth slows or ceases.
Adjust care during this phase to prevent rot. Reduce or withhold watering, as the plant absorbs less moisture. Overwatering during dormancy can lead to fatal root rot.
Protect from intense midday sun during dormancy to prevent sunburn. Move container-grown plants to a shadier, well-ventilated area or provide shade cloth. Avoid fertilizing entirely, as the plant cannot absorb excess nutrients, potentially damaging growth. The plant will resume active growth when temperatures cool in the fall.
Pruning and Shaping
Pruning maintains the appearance and health of Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’. As the plant matures, lower leaves naturally wither. Remove these dead leaves to keep the plant tidy and prevent pest hiding spots.
To encourage bushier growth and shape, leggy stems can be “beheaded” or cut back. This stimulates new offsets and branches below the cut. Use clean, sharp, sterilized tools to prevent disease. Cut stems can also be used for propagation.
Propagating Your Aeonium
Stem cuttings are the most reliable method for propagating Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’. Propagate during active growth (spring or autumn) when mild temperatures support root formation. Select a healthy stem, ideally one that has been beheaded, and make a clean cut.
Allow the cutting to “callus” or dry for a few days to a week. This forms a protective layer, preventing rot when planted. Once callused, insert the cutting into a well-draining succulent or cactus mix, 0.5 to 2 inches deep. Water sparingly until roots form, usually in two to three weeks. Place in bright, indirect light during rooting to avoid scorching.
Addressing Common Problems
Aeonium ‘Lily Pad’ can encounter common issues. Pests like mealybugs (white, cottony masses), aphids (small, soft-bodied), and scale insects (tiny bumps) can infest the plant. Organic treatments like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or rubbing alcohol can control these pests.
Root rot is the most prevalent disease, caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Signs include yellowing or mushy leaves, wilting, and general decline. If suspected, remove the plant from its pot and trim brown, mushy roots with sterilized scissors. Repotting into fresh, well-draining soil and adjusting watering are essential for recovery.
Environmental stressors can also impact appearance. Etiolation (stretched stems with widely spaced leaves) indicates insufficient light. Moving the plant to a brighter location can correct this, though stretched growth won’t revert. Sunburn (reddish or scorched spots) occurs from sudden, intense sunlight, especially after lower light. Gradual acclimation to brighter conditions helps prevent sunburn damage.