“Lunar orchid” is a marketing name for Phalaenopsis orchids, also known as Moth orchids. These plants are admired for their graceful appearance and long-lasting blooms, a favored choice for indoor plant enthusiasts. Their widespread availability and straightforward care make them popular among both novice and experienced growers.
Understanding Lunar Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids, often called “lunar orchids,” have flower shapes resembling moth wings, their common name. Their blooms range from white to vibrant purples, pinks, and yellows, often with intricate patterns or stripes. These flowers emerge from long, arching stems, creating a display lasting several months.
Their foliage consists of broad, fleshy, green leaves in a basal rosette. These leaves store water and nutrients, contributing to resilience. Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytic, meaning they grow on other plants, like trees, rather than in soil. They use roots to anchor themselves and absorb moisture from the air, influencing their specific care requirements.
Essential Care for Lunar Orchids
Light
Appropriate light is important for Phalaenopsis health and blooming. They thrive in bright, indirect light, mimicking dappled sunlight. An east-facing window is often ideal for gentle morning sun, while a shaded south or west-facing window can also work. Too much direct sun scorches leaves, causing yellow or brown patches. Insufficient light results in a lack of blooms and dark green, floppy leaves.
Watering
Proper watering prevents root rot or dehydration. Phalaenopsis orchids prefer a “soak and drain” method: thoroughly water the pot until drainage occurs, then allow it to dry almost completely. Frequency depends on the potting medium and environment, typically 7 to 10 days. Using lukewarm, filtered water or rainwater is beneficial, as these orchids are sensitive to salts and chemicals in tap water.
Humidity and Temperature
Adequate humidity and stable temperatures mimic the tropical environments where these orchids originate. They prefer humidity levels between 50% and 70%, achievable by placing the pot on a pebble tray with water, ensuring it does not sit directly in the water. Ideal daytime temperatures range from 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C), with a slight drop to 60°F to 65°F (15°C to 18°C) at night. Consistent temperatures and sufficient airflow are important to prevent fungal issues.
Potting Media and Fertilizing
As Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytic, they need a specialized potting medium for drainage and aeration. Common media include fir bark, sphagnum moss, or a blend with perlite or charcoal. This allows roots to breathe, preventing waterlogging. Fertilize regularly during active growth, typically every two to four weeks, using a balanced orchid-specific fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength. Reducing fertilization during dormancy or cooler months prevents salt buildup.
Encouraging Blooms and Repotting
Re-blooming Phalaenopsis often involves a slight temperature fluctuation. A drop in night temperatures of 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit (5-8 degrees Celsius) for several weeks, typically in fall, can stimulate a new flower spike. Consistent light and care supports the energy needed for spike growth and flowering. After blooms fade, the flower spike can be trimmed to a node or left to potentially re-bloom from an existing node.
Repotting is necessary every one to two years, or when the potting medium decomposes and holds too much moisture. The best time to repot is after blooming, when new root growth is visible. Choose a pot only slightly larger, ensuring adequate drainage holes. Carefully remove the old medium, trim dead or mushy roots, then gently nestle the orchid into fresh medium, ensuring the crown remains above the surface.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Yellowing leaves on a Phalaenopsis can indicate several issues, often suggesting overwatering leading to root rot, but also underwatering or nutrient deficiency. If leaves shrivel and become wrinkled, it points to insufficient water or root rot preventing water absorption; check roots for firmness. A lack of blooms after healthy growth stems from insufficient light or lack of temperature drop to initiate flowering.
Pests like mealybugs or scale insects may appear as small, fuzzy white spots or tiny bumps on leaves and stems. These can be gently wiped away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Ensuring good air circulation and avoiding excessively humid conditions without proper ventilation helps prevent fungal problems. Addressing these concerns promptly by adjusting care practices or treating pests restores the orchid’s health and vigor.