The Cathedral Window Plant, known for its exquisite foliage and distinctive patterns reminiscent of stained glass, is a popular houseplant. Its intricate leaf designs feature varying shades of green with striking purple undersides. It thrives indoors when provided with conditions that mimic its native rainforest habitat.
Understanding Your Cathedral Window Plant
The Cathedral Window Plant is botanically identified as Goeppertia makoyana, also known as Calathea makoyana. This evergreen perennial hails from the humid rainforests of eastern Brazil, flourishing under the canopy of larger vegetation. Common names like Peacock Plant or Cathedral Windows describe its unique appearance. Its round or ovate leaves display a pale green base with prominent dark green veins and feathered blotches, resembling peacock feathers. The undersides are a striking reddish-purple. A unique characteristic is its “praying” movement, called nyctinasty, where leaves fold upwards at night and unfurl with the dawn, responding to light and temperature changes.
Essential Care for Cathedral Window Plant
Light
The Cathedral Window Plant thrives in bright, indirect light, mimicking its natural rainforest canopy environment. An east-facing window is ideal for gentle morning light. Avoid direct sunlight, as intense rays can scorch delicate leaves and fade vibrant patterns; faded leaves or brown spots indicate too much direct light. Insufficient light leads to elongated, pale leaves and less pronounced patterns. A north-facing window also provides consistent indirect light. For west or south-facing windows, a sheer curtain can diffuse light, preventing damage.
Watering
Consistent moisture is important, but the plant should never be waterlogged to prevent root rot; allow the top inch of soil to dry slightly between waterings. Overwatering results in yellowing leaves and mushy stems. Filtered, distilled, or rainwater is recommended, as these plants are sensitive to fluoride and other chemicals in tap water. These minerals can accumulate, causing browning leaf tips and edges. During winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows, ensuring the soil does not completely dry out.
Humidity
High humidity is a requirement, reflecting the plant’s tropical origins. Low humidity causes crispy, brown leaf edges and tips. Aim for humidity levels above 60%. To increase humidity, mist leaves daily (use non-tap water to avoid stains), place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (not sitting in water), group plants, or use a small room humidifier.
Soil and Potting
The soil mix should be well-draining yet retain some moisture. A peat-based mix with amendments like perlite or vermiculite is suitable for drainage and aeration. A mix of equal parts sand, perlite, and peat, rich in organic matter, also works. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging and root rot; ensure the pot has drainage holes. Adding orchid bark or coarse sand can further improve soil structure and prevent compaction.
Temperature
Cathedral Window Plants prefer warm, stable temperatures, thriving between 65°F (18°C) and 75°F (24°C). They are sensitive to sudden fluctuations and cold drafts, which cause stress and damage. Temperatures below 60°F (15°C) can slow growth and lead to brown leaf edges. Keep the plant away from open windows, air vents, and radiators, as these create drafts or excessively dry conditions.
Fertilizing
Cathedral Window Plants are not heavy feeders but benefit from regular fertilization during their active growing season (spring through summer). A balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, is recommended every two to four weeks. Cease fertilization during fall and winter when the plant enters dormancy. Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup, burning roots and causing leaf spots. Always water the plant before fertilizing to prevent root burn.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Browning leaf tips or edges indicate low humidity, poor water quality, or inconsistent watering; increase humidity, use distilled or filtered water, and maintain consistently moist (but not soggy) soil. Tap water with high chlorine or fluoride can cause these issues. Curling leaves signal underwatering or extremely low humidity; check soil moisture and increase humidity. Yellowing leaves, especially at the base, indicate overwatering and potential root rot; allow soil to dry more between waterings and ensure proper drainage. Fading leaf patterns occur with too much direct sunlight; move the plant to bright, indirect light to restore markings. Common pests like spider mites (thriving in dry conditions) and mealybugs can be controlled with regular inspection, wiping leaves with a damp cloth, and neem oil.
Propagation and Repotting
Propagate the Cathedral Window Plant through division, ideally during spring repotting; carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently separate the rhizomatous roots, ensuring each new section has leaves attached. Plant these divisions into separate pots with fresh, appropriate soil mix. Provide extra humidity to aid recovery. Repotting is necessary every one to two years, or when the plant becomes root-bound. Spring is the best time, before the active growing season. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the previous one; a too-large pot can hold excess moisture and increase root rot risk. When repotting, remove old soil and trim any rotted or damaged roots before placing the plant in its new container.
Toxicity and Pet Safety
The Cathedral Window Plant (Goeppertia makoyana or Calathea makoyana) is considered non-toxic to humans and pets, including cats and dogs. This makes it suitable for homes with curious pets. While not poisonous, ingesting large quantities can cause mild digestive upset due to the fibrous leaves. It is advisable to discourage pets from chewing on houseplants, even non-toxic ones.