Succulents are cherished for their compact forms, but they sometimes develop an elongated, stretched appearance known as legginess. This growth pattern, also called etiolation, results in sparse leaves along a lengthened stem, diminishing the plant’s appeal. Addressing this issue helps maintain the plant’s health and aesthetic shape.
Understanding Leggy Succulents
Leggy growth in succulents primarily stems from insufficient light, known as etiolation. When succulents do not receive adequate light, their stems stretch rapidly as the plant seeks a brighter environment. This stretching results in increased space between leaves on the stem (elongated internodes). Foliage may also appear paler than normal due to reduced chlorophyll production.
While not immediately fatal, a stretched succulent indicates it is not thriving. Elongated stems are often weaker and more susceptible to damage, making the plant less robust. Rosette-shaped succulents, such as Echeveria and Sempervivum, show etiolation clearly as their naturally tight, symmetrical growth becomes distorted. This adaptive response compromises the plant’s structural integrity and visual appeal.
Correcting Leggy Growth
Once a succulent has become leggy, its stretched sections will not revert to their compact form, even with improved light. The most effective way to correct leggy growth is through “beheading” or pruning. This involves cutting the stretched portion of the plant to encourage new, healthier growth.
To begin, use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a cut on the stem. The cut should be made below the leggy section, ideally where the stem begins to show healthy, compact growth again. For the beheaded top, remove the lower leaves from the stem, leaving 1 to 2 inches of bare stem below the rosette. This prepares the cutting for rooting.
After making the cut, allow the severed ends of both the top cutting and the remaining stem to “callus” or dry out for several days to a week. This callusing process forms a protective seal, preventing rot and fungal infections when the plant is exposed to moisture. Callusing typically takes 3 to 7 days, depending on humidity and stem thickness.
After the cut ends have callused, the beheaded top can be replanted in a well-draining succulent or cactus potting mix. Insert the callused stem into the soil, ensuring it is stable. Avoid watering immediately; instead, wait a few days to a week after planting to allow the cut end to adjust and reduce the risk of rot. The remaining stem, still rooted in its original pot, can also produce new “pups” or offsets from the cut surface or along the stem, offering an opportunity for more plants. Place both the replanted top and the original base in a location with bright, indirect light to encourage new, compact growth.
Preventing Leggy Succulents
The primary strategy for preventing legginess in succulents is providing adequate light. Most succulents require significant bright light to maintain their compact form and vibrant color. For indoor succulents, a south-facing window is often the most suitable location, offering the intense light many varieties need. If natural light is insufficient, especially during winter months or in homes with limited sunny windows, supplemental grow lights can be effective.
When using grow lights, full-spectrum LED or fluorescent lights are good choices for succulents. These lights should typically be positioned 6 to 12 inches away for fluorescent tubes and 18 to 24 inches for LED lights, providing 12 to 14 hours of light daily. A color temperature of 5000K to 6500K closely mimics natural sunlight and supports healthy growth. Rotating your succulents regularly ensures all sides of the plant receive even light exposure, preventing them from leaning excessively towards a single light source. While insufficient light is the main cause, warm temperatures combined with low light can also exacerbate stretching, as the plant is tricked into thinking it is growing season. Providing appropriate light levels is therefore the most impactful preventative measure.