Gossypium herbaceum, or Levant cotton, is one of the four main cotton species cultivated globally and is recognized as one of the world’s oldest domesticated fiber crops. This Old World cotton played a foundational role in the textile trade across Africa and Asia for millennia before the rise of modern commercial varieties. Understanding its importance requires examining its unique botanical makeup, ancient origins, diverse uses, and the characteristics that distinguish it from modern cotton.
Defining Gossypium herbaceum: Botanical Characteristics
Gossypium herbaceum is classified as a diploid species, referred to by geneticists as an A-genome cotton. The plant grows as a small, shrub-like perennial, typically reaching a height of three to six feet. Its stems are relatively woody at the base, supporting broad, hairy, maple-like leaves that are often divided into three to seven distinct lobes.
The flowers of Levant cotton resemble those of the hibiscus, belonging to the same Malvaceae family, and are generally a yellow color. A defining trait of the bloom is the presence of a deep purple or reddish spot at the base of each of its five petals. After the flower is fertilized, it develops into a globular fruit called a boll, which eventually splits open to reveal the soft, white fibers surrounding the seeds.
The quality of its lint, or fiber, which is firmly attached to the seed, is a defining feature of G. herbaceum. This fiber is distinctly short and coarse, classifying it as a very short or short-staple cotton. The typical length of the individual fiber cells is relatively short, around one inch (25 millimeters) or less, differentiating it from most modern commercial cottons.
Historical Significance and Native Range
The origins of Gossypium herbaceum trace back to the semi-arid regions of Africa and Asia, with its native range generally spanning from sub-Saharan Africa to the Arabian Peninsula. Archaeological evidence suggests its domestication began in Africa, possibly in the Middle Nile Basin region, as early as 5000 BCE. This makes it one of the earliest cultivated cotton species, alongside its sister species, G. arboreum.
The species earned the common name “Levant cotton” due to its prominence in the Levant region, which encompasses the countries bordering the eastern Mediterranean. Cultivation of this Old World cotton spread widely through the Near East, becoming an important textile source in antiquity, particularly in places like Nubia. For centuries, it formed the backbone of the cotton trade, often exported to Europe as raw fiber or yarn.
This species was the primary source of cotton for textiles in Afro-Eurasia until the introduction of New World varieties. Arab traders were instrumental in spreading the knowledge of cotton cultivation and processing techniques, including the use of the spinning wheel, into the Mediterranean basin and Europe starting around 700 CE. The short-staple cotton’s ability to adapt to arid and sub-arid environments contributed to its successful expansion.
Diverse Applications of Levant Cotton
The primary application of Levant cotton, like all cottons, is the production of textiles from its seed fiber. However, its short and coarse staple length makes it less suited for the fine, high-strength fabrics favored by modern industry. The fiber is commonly spun into yarns used for coarser, more durable materials, such as canvas, denim, or workwear fabrics. Due to these limitations, it is often blended with longer-staple cottons or relegated to non-apparel uses like ropes, twine, or stuffing material.
Beyond its textile uses, G. herbaceum is valued as an oilseed crop, with its seeds containing a rich source of oil. Cottonseed oil is extracted and processed for use in the food industry, where it serves as a cooking oil or an ingredient in products like margarine and vegetable shortenings. The remaining seed meal is then utilized as a protein-rich feed supplement for livestock.
Various parts of the plant have been incorporated into traditional medicine. The root bark and leaves have been traditionally used to address a range of ailments. Specific applications include gynecological uses, such as easing menstrual pains or promoting lactation. Extracts from the plant have also been used traditionally for their anti-inflammatory properties and to treat gastrointestinal distress.
Distinguishing Levant Cotton from Commercial Varieties
Levant cotton now accounts for only a small fraction of global cotton output, having been largely supplanted by two New World species. The globally dominant cotton is Gossypium hirsutum, known as Upland cotton, which makes up over 90% of the world’s production. The second major commercial species is Gossypium barbadense, which includes Pima and Egyptian cottons.
The main difference lies in fiber quality and agricultural yield. G. herbaceum is a diploid Old World species that produces a short, less desirable staple. In contrast, the modern commercial varieties are tetraploids, which contributes to their superior fiber length and strength.
Upland cotton offers higher yields and greater adaptability to diverse agricultural environments, making it more cost-effective to cultivate on a massive scale. While G. herbaceum is drought-hardy, its naturally lower yield and short staple length means it cannot compete commercially with G. hirsutum and G. barbadense crops. Consequently, Levant cotton is now primarily grown in localized areas for specific regional or traditional uses.