Hair relaxers are chemical treatments designed to straighten tightly curled or coiled hair. The process involves applying a chemical lotion or cream to the hair, which “relaxes” the curls, leading to a straighter appearance. This article explores how relaxers can impact hair health and strategies to minimize potential damage.
Understanding Hair Relaxers
Hair relaxers primarily work by chemically altering the hair’s natural structure. This chemical process specifically targets the disulfide bonds, which are strong chemical links found in the keratin protein within the hair’s cortex layer.
This alteration of the disulfide bonds is a permanent change to the hair’s structure, a process often referred to as lanthionization. The alkaline environment created by the relaxer causes hydroxide ions to attack the sulfur atoms in these bonds, disrupting the protein structure. There are two main categories of relaxers based on their active chemical ingredients: lye relaxers, which contain sodium hydroxide, and no-lye relaxers, typically containing calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.
Lye relaxers, with a high pH ranging from 13 to 14, break the hair’s disulfide bonds rapidly and penetrate the hair shaft deeply. This leads to a very effective straightening process. No-lye relaxers, conversely, operate at a slightly lower pH of 12 to 12.5 and work more slowly. While no-lye relaxers are often considered gentler on the scalp, they can sometimes lead to calcium buildup on the hair.
How Relaxers Cause Damage
Hair relaxers can lead to damage through several mechanisms. Over-processing occurs when the relaxer is left on the hair for too long or applied to hair that has already been chemically straightened. This excessive processing breaks too many disulfide bonds, making the hair prone to breakage, dryness, and thinning.
Improper application also contributes to hair damage. Applying relaxer to previously relaxed hair, known as overlapping, can cause damage in those areas. Additionally, applying relaxer to an agitated or sensitive scalp can result in irritation and chemical burns.
Chemical burns to the scalp can cause stinging, redness, and even oozing sores or scabbing. If severe, these burns can damage hair follicles, potentially leading to permanent hair loss, a condition known as cicatricial alopecia.
Relaxers can also degrade keratin proteins, thinning the hair shaft and eroding the inner cortex, which results in split ends and mid-strand snapping. These chemicals strip the hair of its natural oils, contributing to dryness and brittleness. Combining relaxers with other chemical treatments, such as hair dyes, can amplify damage.
Recognizing Hair Damage
Identifying hair damage from relaxers involves observing both visible and tactile signs. Indicators include excessive hair breakage, appearing as short, broken hairs or thinning. The hair may also exhibit split ends.
Affected hair often feels dry, brittle, and lacks elasticity. A dull appearance and increased frizz are common visual cues. The scalp can show signs of irritation, including redness, stinging, a burning sensation, or even the development of sores that may ooze or crust.
Minimizing Damage Risks
Taking proactive steps can reduce the risk of damage when using hair relaxers. Professional application is recommended, as stylists can navigate the complexities of the chemicals and application process. Prior to the service, avoid scalp agitation for at least a week and remove any protective styles in advance. Applying a protective base cream or petroleum jelly around the hairline and on the scalp can create a barrier against chemical burns.
During the relaxer application, a strand test should be performed to assess the hair’s elasticity and determine the appropriate processing time. A patch test is important before the service to check for any allergic reactions. Following the manufacturer’s recommended processing time is important.
To prevent over-processing, the relaxer should only be applied to new hair growth. After processing, using a neutralizing shampoo is important to halt the chemical action and prevent further damage. Maintaining a consistent relaxing schedule, every 8 to 12 weeks, allows sufficient new growth while minimizing chemical exposure to already processed hair.
Between relaxer applications, a hair care routine is important for maintaining hair health. Regular use of hydrating shampoos and conditioners, along with weekly deep conditioning treatments, replenish moisture. Gentle handling of the hair, like using a wide-tooth comb and limiting heat styling, can prevent mechanical stress.
When heat styling is used, applying a heat protectant is important. Protecting hair at night with a silk or satin scarf reduces friction and breakage. Avoid combining relaxers with other chemical services like coloring or bleaching, as this can compromise hair integrity.
Restoring Damaged Hair
While completely reversing hair damage caused by relaxers is not always possible, improving hair health and appearance often is. Deep conditioning treatments restore moisture to dry, brittle hair.
Protein treatments can strengthen weakened hair strands, but they should be used cautiously to avoid protein overload. Balancing protein treatments with moisturizing products maintains hair elasticity and prevents dryness. Regular trims remove split ends and areas of breakage.
Gentle handling, like avoiding excessive brushing and limiting heat styling, minimizes additional stress on fragile hair. Incorporating leave-in moisturizers and nourishing oils into the daily routine maintains hydration between washes. Bond-building treatments may help reconnect compromised disulfide bonds within the hair.