Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) used in skincare for its exfoliating properties. It improves skin texture and appearance by removing dead skin cells. When introducing glycolic acid, some individuals experience a temporary increase in blemishes, known as “skin purging.” This initial reaction is a common part of the skin’s adjustment process.
How Glycolic Acid Works and Triggers Purging
Glycolic acid functions as a chemical exfoliant, dissolving bonds between dead skin cells on the skin’s outermost layer. This process reveals newer, healthier skin.
Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin and accelerate cell turnover. This increased renewal rate brings existing, underlying congestion, such as clogged pores, to the surface more quickly. This expedited clearing of impurities manifests as skin purging, indicating the product is addressing hidden skin issues.
Distinguishing Purging from Breakouts
Distinguishing between skin purging and a regular breakout is important. Purging typically occurs in areas where blemishes usually form, accelerating existing issues beneath the skin’s surface. New breakouts, conversely, can appear in areas where acne is not common for an individual.
The duration of the reaction offers a distinction; purging is generally temporary, lasting two to six weeks, which aligns with the skin’s natural cell renewal cycle. If blemishes persist or worsen beyond this timeframe, it may indicate a true breakout or an adverse reaction. Purging often presents as blackheads, whiteheads, or small papules that resolve quickly. True breakouts, however, can be more inflamed, persistent, or appear as lesions unusual for one’s skin type. If continued product use leads to worsening or persistent blemishes, it suggests irritation rather than beneficial purging.
Navigating the Purging Phase
Managing the skin during the purging phase involves a careful approach to minimize discomfort and support skin health. It is advisable to begin using glycolic acid products slowly, starting with a lower concentration and/or applying it less frequently, perhaps a few times a week, to allow the skin to adapt. This gradual introduction can help mitigate the intensity of the initial reaction.
Maintaining adequate skin hydration is also important; using a gentle, non-comedogenic moisturizer can support the skin’s barrier function during this period. As glycolic acid can increase sun sensitivity, daily application of a broad-spectrum SPF is necessary to protect the skin from sun damage. Resisting the urge to pick or squeeze blemishes is important, as this can worsen inflammation, introduce bacteria, and potentially lead to scarring. During the purging phase, it is beneficial to avoid combining glycolic acid with other harsh exfoliants or active ingredients that might further irritate the skin.
Timeline for Clearer Skin
Skin purging is a temporary process, typically resolving within a few weeks, often cited as a 2 to 6-week timeframe. This duration aligns with the skin’s natural regeneration cycle, as the accelerated cell turnover brings impurities to the surface and then clears them away. After this initial phase, individuals can expect to see clearer, smoother, and more radiant skin as the benefits of accelerated cell renewal become apparent.
If the purging persists beyond the typical 6-week window, becomes excessively severe, or if the reaction seems unusual or causes significant discomfort, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist. A professional can assess whether the reaction is indeed purging or if it might be an irritation, allergy, or another skin concern requiring a different approach. They can also provide guidance on adjusting product usage or recommending alternative treatments.