The use of ambergris, a highly prized ingredient, in perfume has long fascinated people. Often called “floating gold,” this rare substance has a long history in perfumery, valued for its unique aroma and ability to enhance fragrances. While the popular notion of “whale vomit” might evoke a strange image, the reality of ambergris and its role in modern perfumery is more nuanced.
The Nature of Ambergris
Ambergris is not conventionally whale vomit, but a waxy substance from the digestive system of a sperm whale ( Physeter macrocephalus ). It forms as a protective measure around indigestible items, primarily squid beaks, a major part of the whale’s diet. These hardened masses are then expelled, often through defecation, and float in the ocean for years.
Initially, freshly expelled ambergris has an unpleasant, fecal odor. However, prolonged exposure to saltwater, air, and sunlight oxidizes and hardens it, transforming its smell into a complex, desirable aroma. Aged ambergris becomes a waxy, often gray or black, solid mass with a complex scent: sweet, earthy, musky, marine, and sometimes notes of tobacco or sandalwood.
Ambergris’s Role in Perfume
Ambergris was highly valued in perfumery for centuries. Its complex scent, blending musky, sweet, earthy, and marine notes, added depth and character to fragrances. It was particularly prized as a fixative, prolonging the longevity of other, more volatile fragrance notes on the skin.
This quality allowed perfumes to last longer and develop more fully. Historically, ambergris was a luxury ingredient, often used in high-end formulations to enhance and stabilize delicate floral or woody scents. Its rarity made it a coveted component, contributing to the allure and lasting power of many classic perfumes.
Modern Perfumery and Ambergris
The use of natural ambergris in contemporary perfumery has changed due to several factors. Its extreme rarity and unpredictable availability make it incredibly costly and impractical for widespread commercial use. For example, a 6.5-pound block found in England in 2013 was estimated to be worth over 100,000 euros.
Legal and ethical considerations heavily influence its use. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) views naturally found ambergris as a waste product, making its trade legal in some countries, like the UK and EU, if sourced ethically. However, in nations such as the United States and Australia, ambergris possession and trade are prohibited under laws like the Endangered Species Act, which protect sperm whales. These regulations prevent any incentive for harming whales, even though ambergris is not harvested directly from living animals.
Consequently, most modern perfumes now utilize synthetic alternatives to mimic the scent and fixative qualities of natural ambergris. Compounds like Ambroxan and Cetalox are widely used, replicating the woody, musky, and marine notes, and the long-lasting effect of ambergris. While natural ambergris might still appear in some niche, high-end, or artisanal perfumes where legally and ethically sourced, it is not a common ingredient in mainstream perfumery today.