Bullwort, also known as Smyrnium olusatrum, is a plant with a long history. It is also known as Alexanders, Horse Parsley, and Black Lovage. Originally from the Mediterranean basin, it was once a widely cultivated food source. Today, it is recognized as a valuable wild edible by some, while others view it as an invasive species in certain regions.
Identifying Bullwort
As a biennial, Smyrnium olusatrum forms a leafy rosette in its first year, then a flowering stem in its second. It can reach heights of 1 to 2 meters. Its glossy, dark green leaves are divided into three distinct leaflets, resembling celery leaves. When crushed, the leaves release a strong, celery-like or myrrh-like aroma.
Its stout, green stems become hollow and grooved as they mature, sometimes with a purplish tint at the base. In its second year, it produces small, yellow-green flowers in umbrella-shaped clusters (compound umbels). Underground, it develops a fleshy, parsnip-like taproot, typically dark brown or black. It commonly thrives in coastal areas, hedgerows, and disturbed ground, often near historical cultivation sites.
Historical and Culinary Uses
Historically, Smyrnium olusatrum was a valued culinary plant, cultivated by the ancient Romans and in medieval times. Its flavor is often compared to a blend of celery and parsley, with subtle notes of myrrh, angelica, or juniper. All parts are edible, offering culinary versatility:
Young leaves and shoots can be eaten raw in salads or cooked like spinach; blanching can reduce bitterness.
Stems can be prepared like asparagus or celery, often blanched.
Fleshy roots, best harvested in their first year for tenderness, can be boiled in soups or roasted like parsnips.
Flower buds can be added raw to salads, and the spicy, aromatic black seeds serve as a pepper substitute or pickling spice.
Beyond culinary uses, bullwort was traditionally used for ailments like digestive issues, as a diuretic, and for asthma and scurvy. Its widespread culinary use diminished in the 18th century with the rise of sweeter celery.
Ecological Impact and Management
In some regions, Smyrnium olusatrum spreads aggressively, outcompeting local plant species. This rapid growth classifies it as an invasive species outside its native Mediterranean range. Its dense growth can alter local ecosystems by shading out native flora, reducing biodiversity. On coastal seawalls, its vigorous growth can inhibit protective grass cover, impacting structural integrity.
Controlling bullwort spread involves strategic management. Manual removal (pulling or digging) is effective, especially before seed production. Mowing or cutting plants before seed set can also limit reproduction. As a biennial, preventing seed production is key to long-term control. Repeated cutting may be necessary, as it can re-flower.
Safety and Identification Considerations
Bullwort belongs to the Apiaceae (carrot or parsley) family, which includes several highly toxic species. Accurate identification is necessary before consuming any wild plant resembling bullwort. Misidentification can lead to severe illness or death.
Two dangerous look-alikes are poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) and water hemlock (Cicuta spp.). Poison hemlock has hairless stems with purple spots and an unpleasant “mousy” odor when crushed. Water hemlock, found in wet environments, can have purple streaks on stems and roots that may exude yellow sap; its leaves are typically more finely divided. If uncertain about a plant’s identity, avoid consumption. Some individuals may experience allergic reactions to bullwort, especially if sensitive to other Apiaceae plants like celery or carrots.