Orchids, often called “orquidea morada” when referring to their stunning purple hues, are popular houseplants globally. Their exotic beauty and intricate blooms bring a touch of the tropics into any home, offering a rewarding experience for growers.
Popular Purple Orchid Varieties
Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Vanda are common orchid varieties with vibrant purple flowers. Phalaenopsis, or Moth Orchids, are popular for their long-lasting, flat, and richly colored blooms, available in many purple shades. Cattleya orchids, known as Corsage Orchids, feature large, showy, sometimes fragrant flowers with a prominent ruffled lip, ranging from lavender to deep magenta. Vanda orchids are recognized by their striking aerial roots and vivid, often tessellated, purple blooms that can last for one to three months.
Essential Care for Purple Orchids
Light
Providing the right amount of light is fundamental for the health and blooming of purple orchids. Most varieties thrive in bright, indirect light, ideally from an east-facing window, or a south/west-facing window with diffused light to prevent scorching. Too much direct sunlight can cause yellowing, bleached spots, or sunburn. Insufficient light results in dark green leaves, stunted growth, or a lack of blooms.
Watering
Proper watering prevents root rot. The “soak and dry” method is recommended: thoroughly moisten the potting medium, then allow it to dry almost completely before the next watering. Frequency varies, but typically ranges from 7 to 10 days. Orchids with pseudobulbs, like Cattleyas, prefer complete dryness between waterings, while those without, such as Phalaenopsis, should be watered as they approach dryness. Always use lukewarm water and prevent accumulation in the orchid’s crown to avoid rot.
Humidity and Temperature
Purple orchids generally flourish in humidity levels between 40% and 70%. While specific needs vary by type, using pebble trays or a room humidifier can increase humidity. Misting leaves is often temporary and can promote fungal issues.
Temperature requirements also vary by type, but a consistent range is beneficial. Phalaenopsis thrive with daytime temperatures between 65°F and 80°F, and nights above 60°F. Cattleyas prefer days between 70°F and 80°F and nights around 60°F to 64°F, ideally with a 10°F to 15°F drop. Vandas enjoy warmer conditions, typically 70°F to 95°F during the day and 55°F to 72°F at night. Adequate air circulation is important, especially in humid environments, to prevent fungal growth.
Potting Media and Fertilization
A well-draining potting medium, such as bark mixes or sphagnum moss, is essential for orchid roots. Fertilize regularly with a diluted solution. During active growth, fertilize weekly or bi-weekly, reducing to monthly during rest periods. A balanced orchid fertilizer is generally suitable. Always water the orchid thoroughly before applying fertilizer to prevent root burn, and avoid fertilizing when the plant is in bloom or immediately after repotting.
Encouraging Reblooming and Healthy Growth
To encourage repeat blooms, specific practices beyond basic care are beneficial. For many orchids, especially Phalaenopsis, a drop in nighttime temperature (55°F to 65°F) can stimulate new flower spikes. This temperature differential mimics their natural environment and signals the start of a new blooming cycle.
After blooming, proper pruning of the spent flower spike encourages reblooming. For Phalaenopsis, if the spike is green, cut it about half an inch above the second node from the base to promote a new side shoot. If the spike turns brown or yellow, cut it back to the base to conserve plant energy. Continue regular watering and feeding, including phosphorus-rich “bloom booster” fertilizers, to support reblooming.
Troubleshooting Common Orchid Problems
Orchids may show signs of distress indicating care issues. Yellowing leaves can result from natural aging, overwatering (leading to root rot), too much direct light (causing sunburn), nutrient deficiencies, or extreme temperature fluctuations. A lack of blooms often stems from insufficient light, an incorrect temperature cycle (lacking a nighttime drop), or over-fertilization. Shriveled leaves typically indicate underwatering or severe root rot. Common pests like mealybugs or scale insects cause sticky residue; these can be addressed by gently wiping them off with a damp cloth, possibly with a diluted neem oil solution.