Echeveria ‘Perle von Nürnberg’, or Echeveria PVN, is a popular succulent hybrid created in Germany in the 1930s. It features a distinctive rosette shape with thick, triangular leaves displaying blue-gray and pink hues, often with a hint of purple. A fine, powdery coating called farina covers the leaves, contributing to its pearly appearance and offering sun protection. Echeveria PVN is cherished for its aesthetic appeal.
Echeveria PVN Care
Light
Echeveria PVN thrives in ample light, ideally receiving six hours of direct sunlight daily for vibrant coloration and compact growth. Strong light helps develop its deepest pink and purple shades. Indoors, a south-facing window is beneficial; rotate the pot for even exposure. Insufficient light causes etiolation, causing the plant to stretch and become leggy, and colors may dull.
Watering
Like most succulents, Echeveria PVN stores water in its plump leaves and prefers a “soak and dry” watering method. Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings to prevent root rot. Water thoroughly until it drains from the pot’s bottom. During spring and summer, water every 7-10 days. In winter, when semi-dormant, decrease frequency to every 2-3 weeks.
Soil
Echeveria PVN requires excellent drainage to prevent root waterlogging. A gritty texture ensures rapid drainage. Use commercial succulent or cactus potting mixes, or create a DIY blend by combining regular potting soil with perlite, pumice, or coarse sand in a 1:1 ratio. A loose, well-draining mix also facilitates good airflow around the roots.
Temperature and Humidity
Echeveria PVN prefers daytime temperatures of 68-80°F (20-27°C) and tolerates nighttime drops to 50-70°F (10-21°C). It is not cold-hardy; move indoors if temperatures fall below 40°F (4°C) to avoid frost. While preferring dry air, it adapts to various humidity levels. However, consistently high humidity increases the risk of fungal issues.
Fertilizing
Echeveria PVN is not a heavy feeder and rarely requires fertilization. If desired, apply a liquid succulent or low-nitrogen balanced fertilizer once or twice during its summer growing season. Dilute the fertilizer to half strength to prevent root burn. Over-fertilizing can lead to leggy growth instead of vibrant foliage.
Propagating Echeveria PVN
Propagating Echeveria PVN is straightforward, with common methods including leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and beheading. Keep the soil lightly moist until roots establish, avoiding overwatering. Leaf propagation is the slowest method; stem cuttings and beheading offer quicker results.
For leaf propagation, gently twist a healthy leaf from the stem, ensuring a clean pull. Allow it to callus for days until dry, then place on well-draining soil; new plantlets emerge. Stem cuttings involve cutting a stem section, allowing it to callus before planting in dry, well-draining soil. Beheading involves cutting the top rosette, leaving an inch or two of stem with leaves, and allowing cut surfaces to callous before replanting. The remaining stem can also produce new offsets.
Common Problems and Solutions
Echeveria PVN can experience environmental issues. Etiolation, characterized by a stretched stem and spaced-out leaves, occurs from insufficient light. Moving the plant to a brighter location helps, though stretched growth is irreversible.
Mushy or yellowing leaves, especially lower ones, often indicate overwatering or poor drainage, leading to root rot. Allow soil to dry completely between waterings and ensure drainage holes. Sunburn appears as brown or black spots, especially if suddenly exposed to intense sunlight. Gradually acclimate the plant to stronger light or provide afternoon shade during extreme heat.
Pests like mealybugs and aphids can affect Echeveria PVN. Mealybugs, appearing as small, white, cottony masses, can be treated by dabbing with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. Promptly removing dead leaves also helps deter pests.
Repotting Echeveria PVN
Repotting Echeveria PVN every few years refreshes the soil and provides adequate space. Signs include becoming root-bound (roots circling the pot) or depleted, compacted soil. The best time for repotting is during warmer months, typically summer, when the plant is actively growing.
When repotting, choose a pot with drainage holes and use a fresh, well-draining succulent or cactus mix. Gently remove the plant, brush off old soil, and inspect for rot, trimming affected areas. Place the plant in the new pot, backfilling with fresh soil. Avoid watering for a few days to allow roots to settle and heal, which helps prevent root rot.